The mountain has a dual name - Captain Cook named it Mount Warning, but to the Aboriginal community it is known as Wollumbin. The mountain remains a place of cultural and traditional significance to the Bundjalung people. In Aboriginal legend, Wollumbin was a giant bird, speared by a warrior. That fatal spear is still visible as a point on the summit. Cook saw the mountain from the Endeavour in 1770 and named it to warn ships of a dangerous reef off the coast.
We stopped first at the lovely, sleepy seaside town of Kingscliff, where we stretched our legs and enjoyed a coffee in one of the many outdoor cafes that line the street that hugs the waterfront. We then followed the Tweed River in search of Tumbulgum where we were told the local tavern served delicious counter meals. My source was not wrong. The food was amazing and the view even better. We dined on the verandah overlooking a perfectly calm river that reflected the mountains and sky. Mt Warning loomed in the distance and was not too daunting, though the top section looked a bit steep even from here.
It was hard to draw ourselves away from the peace of Tumbulgum, but we continued on, following the Tweed to Murwillumbah where we crossed the river and passed through the interestingly named locality of Dum Dum. Unfortunately I could find no sign so I couldn't get a photo to prove we were there, but trust me, it exists. Next stop - Uki. |
By 4 we began our climb in the dark, well prepared with our head torches and warm jackets. It was solid going, up, ever-upwards. We caught glimpses of the stars through the odd clearing, but mostly we proceeded under a canopy that blocked out any light from the night sky. The track is quite distinct and begins well-paved and has steps that are easy to navigate. The higher you go though, the rougher the track gets, until you finally come to the most difficult section up the steep, rocky final descent that requires the aid of a chain to help you pull yourself up. By this time my leg muscles were shaking with fatigue and it took a mammoth effort to navigate this last bit. The darkness did not help, but this may have been a blessing in disguise as I didn't realise just how steep and how long this section really was. Thanks to Tawa encouraging me on (though it felt like bullying at the time) I made the summit in the gathering dawn of a clear morning ready to witness a spectacular sunrise. We (and about a dozen others) were the first in Australia to see the sun on this day and though we paid the price physically, it was well worth it.