Index for this page (scroll down to see in order): MSC Lirica - Dubai to Venice - Mar./Apr.. 2019
MSC Fantasia - Mediterranean - Dec. 2009
MSC Fantasia - Mediterranean - Dec. 2009
MSC Lirica - Dubai to Venice - Mar/Apr. 2019
It has been almost 10 years since our last MSC cruise. While we enjoyed our first one in 2009, (the ship was beautiful and the itinerary great), the service and the food were not especially impressive. The Lirica, however, has some good reviews, and the itinerary of this repositioning cruise included many places on our long bucket list. We figured that after 10 years it was worth another try.
14 Mar Brisbane to Dubai
And so, the adventure began at the ungodly hour of 2:35am as our Emirates flight took off from Brisbane. We cursed this timing on a previous trip, but like then, we were pleased to find the flight almost empty and the prospect of spreading out a bonus.
We overnighted in Dubai before boarding our ship, spending most of our time there walking and eating shawarma, the popular local snack food of spiced chicken in a wrap. It was pleasantly cool while there, with even a few drops of rain descending on the surprised desert city.
And so, the adventure began at the ungodly hour of 2:35am as our Emirates flight took off from Brisbane. We cursed this timing on a previous trip, but like then, we were pleased to find the flight almost empty and the prospect of spreading out a bonus.
We overnighted in Dubai before boarding our ship, spending most of our time there walking and eating shawarma, the popular local snack food of spiced chicken in a wrap. It was pleasantly cool while there, with even a few drops of rain descending on the surprised desert city.
15 Mar Dubai, U.A.E.
Boarding our MSC ship, Lirica, was smooth and efficient, and we straight away fell in love with the layout and beautiful open spaces. The staff were friendly and welcoming and we were feeling excited, relaxed and optimistic about the next 20 days aboard.
Boarding our MSC ship, Lirica, was smooth and efficient, and we straight away fell in love with the layout and beautiful open spaces. The staff were friendly and welcoming and we were feeling excited, relaxed and optimistic about the next 20 days aboard.
17 Mar Sir Bani Yas Island
Our first scheduled stop was to be Sir Bani Yas Island, but this did not happen. No one can control the weather, and the wind made it too dangerous to land by tender. It was a pity, as the island is a wildlife sanctuary thanks to the efforts of the late Sheikh Zayed bin Al Nahyan. Both endangered and other wildlife roam free. There is also a beautiful beach for swimming and relaxation, but there was nothing to be done except hang up the togs and drown our sorrows in the drinks package.
Our first scheduled stop was to be Sir Bani Yas Island, but this did not happen. No one can control the weather, and the wind made it too dangerous to land by tender. It was a pity, as the island is a wildlife sanctuary thanks to the efforts of the late Sheikh Zayed bin Al Nahyan. Both endangered and other wildlife roam free. There is also a beautiful beach for swimming and relaxation, but there was nothing to be done except hang up the togs and drown our sorrows in the drinks package.
19 Mar Muscat, Oman
Muscat was our second port of call. Here we had more success. The port is a working one, so we had to be transported by bus to the port entrance. There is a lovely esplanade along the waterfront with a labyrinth of market stalls opposite. We explored these later in the day, but first took a taxi to the nearby old town of Muscat. Here is the Sultan’s palace, old fortresses, museum, etc. Everything is neat and clean and immaculately manicured. The colours are strong - blue sky and sea, white buildings, crimson boganvilia, all against a backdrop of bold stark mountains. The palace grounds are pristine, and highly polished granite walkways reflect the buildings and sky so that sometimes you wonder which way is up and which way down.
Muscat was our second port of call. Here we had more success. The port is a working one, so we had to be transported by bus to the port entrance. There is a lovely esplanade along the waterfront with a labyrinth of market stalls opposite. We explored these later in the day, but first took a taxi to the nearby old town of Muscat. Here is the Sultan’s palace, old fortresses, museum, etc. Everything is neat and clean and immaculately manicured. The colours are strong - blue sky and sea, white buildings, crimson boganvilia, all against a backdrop of bold stark mountains. The palace grounds are pristine, and highly polished granite walkways reflect the buildings and sky so that sometimes you wonder which way is up and which way down.
Five sea days followed as we sailed from Muscat to Eilat, following the coastline of Muscat and Yemen and then entering the Sea of Aden. The threat of Somali pirates is still real here and the ship had increased security through these waters. With Saudi Arabia on our right we continued up to the Red Sea and veered to the right of the Sinai.
25 Mar Jerusalem, Israel
Eilat is Israel’s only southern port and for one of the few times in our travels we took a ship shore tour. Jerusalem was a five hour drive north on good roads through desert, past kibbutz, but sadly not past the Dead Sea. Rain was causing havoc with flooded roads in the area, so we had to head up into the mountains and be satisfied with distant views of the salty sea and imagine that we could float in it (despite a hearty diet of ship cuisine). Maybe it was just as well we didn’t get to put it to the test.
Eilat is Israel’s only southern port and for one of the few times in our travels we took a ship shore tour. Jerusalem was a five hour drive north on good roads through desert, past kibbutz, but sadly not past the Dead Sea. Rain was causing havoc with flooded roads in the area, so we had to head up into the mountains and be satisfied with distant views of the salty sea and imagine that we could float in it (despite a hearty diet of ship cuisine). Maybe it was just as well we didn’t get to put it to the test.
Despite the long distance to Jerusalem the drive was interesting and our guide gave us a comprehensive commentary of the scenery and the history of the country. The rain continued to fall in Jerusalem (perhaps God was crying huge tears of despair as so many sinners entered the city) and this dampened our explorations somewhat. But it was still a wonderful experience, especially winding our way through the old walled city. We visited the Wailing Wall (men to the left, women to the right), followed the stations of the cross, and walked in the different sections of Muslim, Christian, and Jew. The aromas of spices and incense and various foods wafted around the markets. Colour pervaded in the sweets, the spices, the crafts, the carpets and the fabrics. A heavily armed presence of police and military reminded us that peace is tenacious, and the crowded religious sites reminded us that despite the troubles, people of all beliefs are willing to take the risks to visit here. The long drive through the night back to Eilat passed easily thanks to our connection to WiFi in the bus - our first in a week.
26 Mar Petra, Jordan
The ship left Eilat at 1 am, sailed around for a few hours and then docked at Aqaba at 8 the next morning, just a short distance along the coast (well in view) from where we had been docked in Eilat. It had been a long day in Israel, but another long day was to follow in Jordan, for Petra was the jewel in today’s crown.
Petra seems to be on nearly everybody’s bucket list. It is a two hour drive from Aqaba, which seemed a pittance after yesterday’s long haul. Jordan and Israel are side by side, both desert, yet so different. Neat and highly organised Kibbutz dot the Israeli’s side, as do well watered farms and date plantations, and well tended animals (the cows even have air conditioning). The Jordanians have many Bedouin settlements and camps. Our drive was just as interesting, yet litter dampened the scenery - so much glass and plastic strewn near any settlements. But once out in the mountains, the scenery was spectacular.
The ship left Eilat at 1 am, sailed around for a few hours and then docked at Aqaba at 8 the next morning, just a short distance along the coast (well in view) from where we had been docked in Eilat. It had been a long day in Israel, but another long day was to follow in Jordan, for Petra was the jewel in today’s crown.
Petra seems to be on nearly everybody’s bucket list. It is a two hour drive from Aqaba, which seemed a pittance after yesterday’s long haul. Jordan and Israel are side by side, both desert, yet so different. Neat and highly organised Kibbutz dot the Israeli’s side, as do well watered farms and date plantations, and well tended animals (the cows even have air conditioning). The Jordanians have many Bedouin settlements and camps. Our drive was just as interesting, yet litter dampened the scenery - so much glass and plastic strewn near any settlements. But once out in the mountains, the scenery was spectacular.
Two days in the desert - yesterday floods, today snow. Not at all what one expects. It was very cold in the mountains, but the day was clear and sunny. Our climb from the coast and descent to Petra was accompanied by breathtaking views all the way. It was still quite chilly in Petra, so we rugged up to begin our hike to the site which is included in the list of Seven New Wonders of the World.
The Nabataean city, which prospered from the 1st century BC through trade in spices, frankincense and myrrh, was later annexed to the Roman Empire, but destruction due to an earthquake and changes in trade routes led to abandonment. It was lost to all except local Bedouin, until a Swiss explorer, Johannes Burckhardt, set out to rediscover it in 1812.
I think the most impressive part of the site is the long walk in through towering cliffs. The siq is a natural 1.2 kilometre long sandstone gorge that winds gently down to the ancient city of Petra. Water channels that carried fresh water from springs to the city are still obvious on either side, as are some of the clay pipes that lined them. Parts of the original paved road are also still present, as are niches, carvings and god blocks that protected ancient travellers. These are quite weathered, however, and one can only imagine how they must have appeared in their full glory. But nothing can take away the glory of the natural rocks, towering to the sky and changing in depth of colour depending on the weather.
Then the canyon narrows and breaks open to reveal the Treasury, probably the most well known building in Petra. It is surely also the best preserved, as most other buildings are very weather worn. One can’t help but be gobsmacked. Ancient travellers must have been as well.
I think the most impressive part of the site is the long walk in through towering cliffs. The siq is a natural 1.2 kilometre long sandstone gorge that winds gently down to the ancient city of Petra. Water channels that carried fresh water from springs to the city are still obvious on either side, as are some of the clay pipes that lined them. Parts of the original paved road are also still present, as are niches, carvings and god blocks that protected ancient travellers. These are quite weathered, however, and one can only imagine how they must have appeared in their full glory. But nothing can take away the glory of the natural rocks, towering to the sky and changing in depth of colour depending on the weather.
Then the canyon narrows and breaks open to reveal the Treasury, probably the most well known building in Petra. It is surely also the best preserved, as most other buildings are very weather worn. One can’t help but be gobsmacked. Ancient travellers must have been as well.
The time available to us for exploring the site was far too short. We would probably need days to do it justice. It covers a huge area, with many kilometres of trails leading to ancient structures such as the royal tombs, a great temple, and a monastery. We only made it as far as the amphitheatre, an impressive structure carved into rock under the High Place of Sacrifice, and reached via the Street of Facades. The row of monumental Nabataean tombs carved into cliff faces are well-weathered, but their grandeur is still evident.
Our return back through the siq was just as enjoyable as it was on the way in, though the return meant a steady climb. We continued to be wary of the horses and buggies that whizzed through at breakneck speed, ferrying tourists who were not up to the hike. Water from the previous day’s rain, flowing through the siq in various spots was a bit of a nuisance, making parts wet and slippery. But mostly we wandered on in awe. Reg was grateful I had brought my hiking poles and managed the 10 plus kilometres comfortably.
28 Mar Suez Canal Crossing
Today we transitted the Suez Canal. Whereas the Panama Canal is characterised by locks, the Suez is level, but no less amazing. I woke and went up on deck before sunrise, timing perfectly our entry from the Gulf of Suez into the canal. We were Number 1 in the convoy, with our own two tugboats constantly nudging us to the safety of the centre of the canal. The other ships were strung out behind us with a safe distance between each. By mid-morning we had entered the Bitter Lake, calm as glass and all misty. Continuing on, we entered the newer canal to the east, while the southbound ships sailed through the western canal.
Today we transitted the Suez Canal. Whereas the Panama Canal is characterised by locks, the Suez is level, but no less amazing. I woke and went up on deck before sunrise, timing perfectly our entry from the Gulf of Suez into the canal. We were Number 1 in the convoy, with our own two tugboats constantly nudging us to the safety of the centre of the canal. The other ships were strung out behind us with a safe distance between each. By mid-morning we had entered the Bitter Lake, calm as glass and all misty. Continuing on, we entered the newer canal to the east, while the southbound ships sailed through the western canal.
It was a great disappointment that the ship gave no running commentary during the transit. We passed so many places of interest and so many interesting activities with so many questions. We had to satisfy our curiosity with follow up research. The Suez is 193 km long, varying in width from 200 to 250 metres. The works were designed by an Italian engineer and carried out by the French, to be completed in 1871. In 2015 an extra canal to the north of the lake was added. Each year more than 17,000 vessels navigate the canal, despite the high cost, to avoid sailing around Africa. Tolls paid by vessels represent an important source of income for the Egyptian government.
By mid-afternoon we left the canal at Port Siad and set sail in the Mediterranean, heading north for Cyprus.
By mid-afternoon we left the canal at Port Siad and set sail in the Mediterranean, heading north for Cyprus.
29 Mar Cyprus
We docked in Cyprus by midday under heavy cloud, drizzling rain and a cold wind. But the rain kindly ceased by the time we disembarked and we were able to remain dry as we explored Limassol. It has a wide, beautiful esplanade that must be lovely in the summer season, typical Greek shops and tavernas, and some interesting ruins from the time of the crusades. It was a pleasant visit, but our hearts lay in the north where we had spent wonderful days exploring the Turkish side in the 1980s - so close, yet so far.
We docked in Cyprus by midday under heavy cloud, drizzling rain and a cold wind. But the rain kindly ceased by the time we disembarked and we were able to remain dry as we explored Limassol. It has a wide, beautiful esplanade that must be lovely in the summer season, typical Greek shops and tavernas, and some interesting ruins from the time of the crusades. It was a pleasant visit, but our hearts lay in the north where we had spent wonderful days exploring the Turkish side in the 1980s - so close, yet so far.
30 Mar At Sea
After leaving Cyprus the captain announced a change in itinerary due to “force majeure”. Huge winds and waves would prevent us reaching Piraeus, the port for Athens. Instead we would visit Corfu, which suited us fine as we had never been there before.
The captain had not been joking about the major weather force. We did some wild wave dancing through the next night and day, but we did not mind as it is lovely being rocked to sleep. We sailed along he south coast of Crete in the late afternoon, and by next morning, the waters had calmed and the glorious sun rose over the coast of the Peloponnese. I must be part Greek (my DNA test actually notes a small percentage) for my heart pumps a little faster when I first sight her and there is an inexplicable joy pulsing through my veins when I breathe her air. I feel a comfort of familiarity, yet at the same time an excitement of new discoveries awaiting.
After leaving Cyprus the captain announced a change in itinerary due to “force majeure”. Huge winds and waves would prevent us reaching Piraeus, the port for Athens. Instead we would visit Corfu, which suited us fine as we had never been there before.
The captain had not been joking about the major weather force. We did some wild wave dancing through the next night and day, but we did not mind as it is lovely being rocked to sleep. We sailed along he south coast of Crete in the late afternoon, and by next morning, the waters had calmed and the glorious sun rose over the coast of the Peloponnese. I must be part Greek (my DNA test actually notes a small percentage) for my heart pumps a little faster when I first sight her and there is an inexplicable joy pulsing through my veins when I breathe her air. I feel a comfort of familiarity, yet at the same time an excitement of new discoveries awaiting.
31 Mar Katakolon, Greece
Katakolon was our port of call today. It lies on a gulf overlooking the Ionian Sea. Many chose to take the half hour train trip to Olympia, but as we will be back in a few weeks, we chose to explore the town and just let Greece seep into our pores and stomachs. We were blessed with a perfect spring day full of blossoming trees and blue sky, white washed buildings and sparkling sea. After wandering along the waterfront and Katakolon’s other two streets we found a little taverna nestled against the hillside with tables bathed in birdsong, warm sunshine and scents of spring. We ordered souvlaki in pita and cold Mythos beer, then wallowed in contentment, wondering how it was possible for one couple to have so much happiness.
Katakolon was our port of call today. It lies on a gulf overlooking the Ionian Sea. Many chose to take the half hour train trip to Olympia, but as we will be back in a few weeks, we chose to explore the town and just let Greece seep into our pores and stomachs. We were blessed with a perfect spring day full of blossoming trees and blue sky, white washed buildings and sparkling sea. After wandering along the waterfront and Katakolon’s other two streets we found a little taverna nestled against the hillside with tables bathed in birdsong, warm sunshine and scents of spring. We ordered souvlaki in pita and cold Mythos beer, then wallowed in contentment, wondering how it was possible for one couple to have so much happiness.
1 April Corfu, Greece
Corfu was a delightful bonus to our cruise, replacing the original planned stop of Athens. We were treated to another clear sunny day and soaked up the atmosphere of the old town as we polished the paving stones with our footsteps, just as thousands through the centuries have done before us. Today’s cost of accessing WiFi was incredibly delicious tzarsiki washed down with more Mythos. Sometimes life is tough, and sometimes it is fan-bloody-tastic!
Corfu was a delightful bonus to our cruise, replacing the original planned stop of Athens. We were treated to another clear sunny day and soaked up the atmosphere of the old town as we polished the paving stones with our footsteps, just as thousands through the centuries have done before us. Today’s cost of accessing WiFi was incredibly delicious tzarsiki washed down with more Mythos. Sometimes life is tough, and sometimes it is fan-bloody-tastic!
2 April Kotor, Montenegro
Sailing into the Bay of Kotor is one of those breathtakingly beautiful experiences in life that bathe you in wonder. Last year we drove around this bay on a day trip from Dubrovnik and marvelled then at its beauty. We sat in a little cafe by the water and watched a ship sail into an inner bay (Boka Bay), gliding quietly through the still morning, until it blew its horn and the echo was tossed around the surrounding mountains like a giant beach ball.
Today our ship was quiet all the way in. Somehow it would have been sacrilegious to split the early morning with a foghorn. The water was as smooth as glass as we drifted through a light mist that lifted as the sun rose above those majestic mountains and washed the waterfront villages in golden light.
Sailing into the Bay of Kotor is one of those breathtakingly beautiful experiences in life that bathe you in wonder. Last year we drove around this bay on a day trip from Dubrovnik and marvelled then at its beauty. We sat in a little cafe by the water and watched a ship sail into an inner bay (Boka Bay), gliding quietly through the still morning, until it blew its horn and the echo was tossed around the surrounding mountains like a giant beach ball.
Today our ship was quiet all the way in. Somehow it would have been sacrilegious to split the early morning with a foghorn. The water was as smooth as glass as we drifted through a light mist that lifted as the sun rose above those majestic mountains and washed the waterfront villages in golden light.
Kotor, a medieval city built between the 12th and 14th centuries, is nestled at the very end of the bay, under these mountains that give the country its name. Montenegro means black mountains.
We docked right beside the old walled city and enjoyed strolling around its narrow paved streets, walking parts of the walls, but mostly wondering how on earth they built these walls snaking up the rugged mountains so high. Our WiFi access today came thanks to a little cafe under a church that pealed its midday bells as we ate fresh calamari.
Sailing out of the bay at sunset set our hearts racing again. It is a mystery to me how one can feel so excited and so peaceful at the same time. But there you go - it happens. Shadows slip quickly through the mountains here as the sun dips behind their towering heights. By the time we had proceeded to the islands at our turn out of the most inner bay, the water had turned the colour of pewter and the hush of dusk descended.
3 April Split, Croatia
Let’s Split. We stayed here last year for a few days, so it was nice to revisit and roam the lovely old city considered to be about 1700 years old. Most of the old town is built around the 4th century palace of Roman Emperor Diocletian and it is easy to get lost in the small winding paved alley ways. Another lovely part of Split is the cafe lined wide waterfront, where it is easy to while away hours over a meal or a coffee, while watching the locals and tourists stroll and sit and appreciate the sea.
Let’s Split. We stayed here last year for a few days, so it was nice to revisit and roam the lovely old city considered to be about 1700 years old. Most of the old town is built around the 4th century palace of Roman Emperor Diocletian and it is easy to get lost in the small winding paved alley ways. Another lovely part of Split is the cafe lined wide waterfront, where it is easy to while away hours over a meal or a coffee, while watching the locals and tourists stroll and sit and appreciate the sea.
4 April Venice
This morning we sailed into Venice, which is another amazing experience that not even a grey Italian drizzle could dampen. The sun tried to break through the heavy sky, but could only manage a pale glow to show where it has risen. Slowly we made our way past San Marco to the cruise basin and disembarked our ship for the final time.
We then had three glorious days wandering the confusing streets and crossing the numerous bridges of this beautiful city before flying to Greece. No matter how many times we visit Venice, we always discover new things and appreciate old favourites more. Yes it is overrun with tourists, and yes it is rediculously expensive, but that is the price of fame. It is still jaw-droppingly impressive no matter what.
This morning we sailed into Venice, which is another amazing experience that not even a grey Italian drizzle could dampen. The sun tried to break through the heavy sky, but could only manage a pale glow to show where it has risen. Slowly we made our way past San Marco to the cruise basin and disembarked our ship for the final time.
We then had three glorious days wandering the confusing streets and crossing the numerous bridges of this beautiful city before flying to Greece. No matter how many times we visit Venice, we always discover new things and appreciate old favourites more. Yes it is overrun with tourists, and yes it is rediculously expensive, but that is the price of fame. It is still jaw-droppingly impressive no matter what.
Summing up
So, in summing up, we loved this cruise despite it being our least favourite cruise line. The itinerary was excellent. We got to experience many new places, giving us a taste of things we might like to explore in more depth in the future. Despite our complaining about the food, I think we may have packed on a few extra kilos along the way. The food was bland and very ordinary, but the drinks package was amazing value compared to other ships, so this may have contributed to a few extra calories. The multilingual staff were great - friendly and fun and efficient at their jobs. The entertainment team was brilliant, very energetic and involved, and always on duty with a packed program of activities and entertainment. Being an Italian cruise line, they embraced their inner opera and belted out stirring pieces of music over outdoor speakers to highlight special moments, including triumphant processional music down the Suez Canal and stirring farewell pieces leaving ports. The ship layout was lovely with a mix of open airy spaces and cosy nooks. And finally, we met a whole bunch of fantastic fellow travellers. So many reminded us of famous people. Our fellow diners included Dirty Harry (Clint Eastwood) and Uncle Harry (from The Sullivans). Billy Connelly sat at a table down from us, Lurch (from The Adams Family) was our maitre d’, and Rasputin was part of the entertainment team. The majority of passengers were Australian and German, though many languages were spoken throughout the ship, somewhat limiting Reg’s eavesdropping practices.
As ever, we feel blessed with our lot in life. Of course we had a great cruise.
So, in summing up, we loved this cruise despite it being our least favourite cruise line. The itinerary was excellent. We got to experience many new places, giving us a taste of things we might like to explore in more depth in the future. Despite our complaining about the food, I think we may have packed on a few extra kilos along the way. The food was bland and very ordinary, but the drinks package was amazing value compared to other ships, so this may have contributed to a few extra calories. The multilingual staff were great - friendly and fun and efficient at their jobs. The entertainment team was brilliant, very energetic and involved, and always on duty with a packed program of activities and entertainment. Being an Italian cruise line, they embraced their inner opera and belted out stirring pieces of music over outdoor speakers to highlight special moments, including triumphant processional music down the Suez Canal and stirring farewell pieces leaving ports. The ship layout was lovely with a mix of open airy spaces and cosy nooks. And finally, we met a whole bunch of fantastic fellow travellers. So many reminded us of famous people. Our fellow diners included Dirty Harry (Clint Eastwood) and Uncle Harry (from The Sullivans). Billy Connelly sat at a table down from us, Lurch (from The Adams Family) was our maitre d’, and Rasputin was part of the entertainment team. The majority of passengers were Australian and German, though many languages were spoken throughout the ship, somewhat limiting Reg’s eavesdropping practices.
As ever, we feel blessed with our lot in life. Of course we had a great cruise.