Coral Princess - Antarctic Cruise - Jan/Feb 2020
With the arrival of 2020, the big one on my bucket list loomed nearer to being ticked off - conquering our 7th continent, the highest, coldest, windiest and driest one of all, Antarctica. After a few days exploring Buenos Aires we boarded the Coral Princess with high anticipation. The embarkation process was as smooth as silk. We slept well as we sailed overnight down the Rio de la Plata, ready to explore our first port of call, Montevideo, the capital of Uruguay. Montevideo has a small town feel, with long pedestrian streets, lush parks and eclectic architecture that reflects its multicultural history.
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Two sea days followed, which allowed us to catch our breath and get to know the ship. Out cabin was perfectly located in the centre of the ship on deck eight. If our crossing of the Drake Passage was to be rough we would rock the least. The room was spacious and the beds, divine. The food was outstanding and the activity program full and varied, with the lectures offered by on board naturalists and experts on the Antarctic especially interesting.
25 Jan. Falkland Islands
The Falkland Islands lie in the South Atlantic Ocean. Port Stanley, established by the the British in 1845, became one of the world’s busiest ports. It specialised in repairs for boats travelling through the Straights of Magellan. Its position means it is in the path of strong winds sweeping around the Horn, but the weather gods smiled favourably on our visit. The sun shone and they had a rare day of barely any wind sweeping across the islands.
We got an early tender ashore and caught a local shuttle to Gypsy Cove in the hope of seeing Magellanic penguins. The 20 minute drive gave us a view of some wrecks along the way, and a view of the wild, treeless landscape. As we passed York’s Bay we witnessed a dozen or so people in high viz jackets sweeping the beach for mines which may have washed up with the tide. We also passed a few signs warning of land mine dangers, a legacy of the 1982 conflict between Britain and Argentina. Mine clearing is ongoing by the British government.
A circular path is dotted with lookout points offering great views of the cove, surrounding waters, the windswept landscape and of Stanley shining colourfully in the distance. As we walked we could hear the cheeps of penguins around us and after only a short distance we spotted two chicks in a burrow right beside the path. We saw another, this one an adult, sleeping peacefully in the sunshine just outside its burrow. I had expected to see a beach full of penguins waddling around, but alas, not today. I saw only two more - one waddling down the beach to the water, and one standing majestically in the scrub above the beach. We did, however, see many birds including vultures and flightless ducks.
Back in Stanley we enjoyed a walk around the main attractions. The pictures tell the story best.
The Falkland Islands lie in the South Atlantic Ocean. Port Stanley, established by the the British in 1845, became one of the world’s busiest ports. It specialised in repairs for boats travelling through the Straights of Magellan. Its position means it is in the path of strong winds sweeping around the Horn, but the weather gods smiled favourably on our visit. The sun shone and they had a rare day of barely any wind sweeping across the islands.
We got an early tender ashore and caught a local shuttle to Gypsy Cove in the hope of seeing Magellanic penguins. The 20 minute drive gave us a view of some wrecks along the way, and a view of the wild, treeless landscape. As we passed York’s Bay we witnessed a dozen or so people in high viz jackets sweeping the beach for mines which may have washed up with the tide. We also passed a few signs warning of land mine dangers, a legacy of the 1982 conflict between Britain and Argentina. Mine clearing is ongoing by the British government.
A circular path is dotted with lookout points offering great views of the cove, surrounding waters, the windswept landscape and of Stanley shining colourfully in the distance. As we walked we could hear the cheeps of penguins around us and after only a short distance we spotted two chicks in a burrow right beside the path. We saw another, this one an adult, sleeping peacefully in the sunshine just outside its burrow. I had expected to see a beach full of penguins waddling around, but alas, not today. I saw only two more - one waddling down the beach to the water, and one standing majestically in the scrub above the beach. We did, however, see many birds including vultures and flightless ducks.
Back in Stanley we enjoyed a walk around the main attractions. The pictures tell the story best.
The most outstanding thing about our visit was how friendly and helpful the locals were and what a wonderful sense of community they have. With a population of 2,500 in Stanley (and only 3,000 in the whole country), everyone was out to help out with the influx of cruise ship visitors. Anyone who could drive a bus manned a shuttle. Others not working in shops or cafes or pubs were scattered around the streets and outer lying areas, happily answering questions and giving directions and suggestions on places to see.
26 Jan. Drake Passage Crossing
The Drake Passage, between South America and Antarctica, is famously rough due to the convergence of oceans and temperatures, and usually buffeted by ferocious winds. Amazingly for us, the weather gods were kind once again, and our crossing was smooth and mostly sunny. The captain said this is as good as it gets.
The ship put on an Australia Day party for us in the afternoon. Some Aussies had come very prepared with flags and costumes. We just brought our thirsts.
The Drake Passage, between South America and Antarctica, is famously rough due to the convergence of oceans and temperatures, and usually buffeted by ferocious winds. Amazingly for us, the weather gods were kind once again, and our crossing was smooth and mostly sunny. The captain said this is as good as it gets.
The ship put on an Australia Day party for us in the afternoon. Some Aussies had come very prepared with flags and costumes. We just brought our thirsts.
27 Jan. Elephant Island
Our first sighting of land after crossing Drake Passage was Elephant Island looming through the fog. Penguins were porpoising on both sides of the ship as we sailed through the South Shetland Islands, while the sea remained calm and the fog continued to lift and fall. Our first iceberg was also sighted this morning.
Our first sighting of land after crossing Drake Passage was Elephant Island looming through the fog. Penguins were porpoising on both sides of the ship as we sailed through the South Shetland Islands, while the sea remained calm and the fog continued to lift and fall. Our first iceberg was also sighted this morning.
28 Jan. Antarctic Sound and King George Island
This morning we sailed into Antarctic Sound, also known as Iceberg Alley. There are not many icebergs here now, however, due to the iceberg called A68, the world’s largest iceberg blocking others from entering. For us, this meant safer sailing. A68 calved off Antarctica's Larsen C Ice Shelf on July 12, 2017 and is 160 kilometres long. We did see our fair share of smaller icebergs though, quite a few with penguins aboard.
(N.B. News reports in early February state that A68 is on the move due to winds and currents. Soon it will be free of the peninsula it has clung to and sweep northwards along Iceberg Alley towards the Atlantic. Our timing was lucky.)
This morning we sailed into Antarctic Sound, also known as Iceberg Alley. There are not many icebergs here now, however, due to the iceberg called A68, the world’s largest iceberg blocking others from entering. For us, this meant safer sailing. A68 calved off Antarctica's Larsen C Ice Shelf on July 12, 2017 and is 160 kilometres long. We did see our fair share of smaller icebergs though, quite a few with penguins aboard.
(N.B. News reports in early February state that A68 is on the move due to winds and currents. Soon it will be free of the peninsula it has clung to and sweep northwards along Iceberg Alley towards the Atlantic. Our timing was lucky.)
Esperanza Station was an interesting sight - brown buildings against white snow, surrounded by thousands and thousands of penguins. This permanent Argentine Scientific Research Station is quite large, with even a store and a school and is one of the few bases actually on the Antarctic peninsula proper. The current station, Esperanza (Hope) was built and first occupied in 1952, and it claims many Antarctic firsts: first consecrated Catholic chapel (1976), first school (1978), and, a serious matter of national pride, first baby born in Antarctica, Emilio Marcos de Palma (born 7 January 1978).
In the afternoon we sailed into Admiralty Bay on King George Island. Some scientists from the Polish research station here were going to come aboard to speak to us, but the weather turned too gusty for them to do so safely.
29 Jan. Charlotte Bay, Wilhelmina Bay and Neumayer Channel
Today was the highlight of our scenic cruising - the weather was beyond kind to us. Sailing was calm, winds low and the sun even came out in the afternoon. The morning was full of whales and icebergs.
We spent time in Charlotte Bay first and then Bancroft Bay. The captain turned off the engines so we could enjoy the silence and serenity. Ice littered the bays, icebergs glowed blue in the light, and whales lazily floated by everywhere we looked. We even witnessed the amazing disintegration of one iceberg. As we passed the icy mass it suddenly raised in the middle and folded in two. It continued to lift and split until it was nothing more than a giant slushy of mushy ice.
Today was the highlight of our scenic cruising - the weather was beyond kind to us. Sailing was calm, winds low and the sun even came out in the afternoon. The morning was full of whales and icebergs.
We spent time in Charlotte Bay first and then Bancroft Bay. The captain turned off the engines so we could enjoy the silence and serenity. Ice littered the bays, icebergs glowed blue in the light, and whales lazily floated by everywhere we looked. We even witnessed the amazing disintegration of one iceberg. As we passed the icy mass it suddenly raised in the middle and folded in two. It continued to lift and split until it was nothing more than a giant slushy of mushy ice.
Later we entered Wilhelmina Bay, another perfect sanctuary of peace and great untouched beauty. Wilhelmina Bay is high in the ranks of must-see Antarctic sights because of its sheer ice cliffs and glacial sculpturing..
In the afternoon we sailed through the Neumayer Passage where we were met by more spectacular scenery and sunshine. Neumayer Channel is a glacier-fringed waterway just southeast of Gerlache Strait, and separates Anvers Island from Wiencke Island. It is a narrow 25 kilometre long channel shaped like an S. Katabatic winds finally drove us inside where we retreated to a bar to thaw out. Katabatic wind, also called downslope wind, or gravity wind, blows down a slope because of gravity, and is very cold coming off the slopes of glaciers.
30 Jan. Deception Island
Wow, just when we thought it couldn’t get any better, it did. Today we sailed into the caldera of Deception Island. A violent eruption about 10,000 years ago caused this volcano’s summit to collapse and formed the flooded caldera in the centre of the island. Our captain is quite an adventurer and it can be often impossible to get in, but conditions were perfect today. The smell of a colony of penguins greeted us on one side as we entered. On the other were sheer cliffs.. Inside we were able to get a good look at an old whaling station and a couple of scientific research stations, as well as the fascinating geological makeup of the island. Seals, like giant fat slugs, lazed on some of the black beaches. It was a wonderful expedition.
Wow, just when we thought it couldn’t get any better, it did. Today we sailed into the caldera of Deception Island. A violent eruption about 10,000 years ago caused this volcano’s summit to collapse and formed the flooded caldera in the centre of the island. Our captain is quite an adventurer and it can be often impossible to get in, but conditions were perfect today. The smell of a colony of penguins greeted us on one side as we entered. On the other were sheer cliffs.. Inside we were able to get a good look at an old whaling station and a couple of scientific research stations, as well as the fascinating geological makeup of the island. Seals, like giant fat slugs, lazed on some of the black beaches. It was a wonderful expedition.
In the afternoon it was farewell to Antarctica. I cannot believe how lucky we have been with the weather conditions, and the expertise of the crew and naturalists abroad. The commentary as we have cruised and the lectures on the area have been outstanding. All our expectations have been exceeded.
As we sailed across Drake Passage through the morning sunshine, we were excited to have some swell - not bad, but at least some movement. By late afternoon we sited Cape Horn, its lighthouse, and the lighthouse keeper’s cottage. Sailing towards it, we split the Pacific and the Atlantic Oceans like a zipper. Some pilots came aboard to help us circumnavigate Horn Island, so technically we have sailed twice around the Horn.
1 Feb. Ushuaia
Today we landed at the end of the world, though having just come from Antarctica, it certainly didn’t feel like the end of the world. Ushuaia, the capital of of Tierra del Fuego,, was overcast, but a warm 15 degrees. It is a beautiful town in a well protected bay on the Beagle Passage. Sadly the original inhabitants, who had been here for about 10,000 years, have all but died out. Rather than “saving” souls, the missionaries who began arriving in 1833 wiped out a race with their diseases.
Argentina designated Ushuaia a penal colony in 1896, completed a jail in 1902, and housed inmates until 1947.
Today we landed at the end of the world, though having just come from Antarctica, it certainly didn’t feel like the end of the world. Ushuaia, the capital of of Tierra del Fuego,, was overcast, but a warm 15 degrees. It is a beautiful town in a well protected bay on the Beagle Passage. Sadly the original inhabitants, who had been here for about 10,000 years, have all but died out. Rather than “saving” souls, the missionaries who began arriving in 1833 wiped out a race with their diseases.
Argentina designated Ushuaia a penal colony in 1896, completed a jail in 1902, and housed inmates until 1947.
2 Feb. Punta Arenas
Punta Arenas, Chile’s most southern city, lies on the Brunswick Peninsula at the Strait of Magellan. Magellan sailed this way 500 years ago and he is immortalised in monuments and place names around this lovely area.
In 1848, Chile set up a penal colony that grew into Punta Arenas – positioned so that the fledging state could control the Strait of Magellan. Swelled by European immigrants, it rode the 19th-century Patagonian sheep farming boom to become a wool-production centre, perfectly placed on maritime export routes. That, and local coal reserves, funded the European-style splendour of the city’s mansions.
Although Punta Arenas is quite dry, it showered lightly during our visit. Thankfully, though, it was not windy, so we did not need to use ropes in the downtown area. City officials put these up in summer so that pedestrians can hold onto them when the winds are usually at their strongest.
The city has a lovely wide boulevard along the waterfront, wide streets with beautiful colonial buildings, many green areas, and plentiful monuments and statues and works of art.
Punta Arenas, Chile’s most southern city, lies on the Brunswick Peninsula at the Strait of Magellan. Magellan sailed this way 500 years ago and he is immortalised in monuments and place names around this lovely area.
In 1848, Chile set up a penal colony that grew into Punta Arenas – positioned so that the fledging state could control the Strait of Magellan. Swelled by European immigrants, it rode the 19th-century Patagonian sheep farming boom to become a wool-production centre, perfectly placed on maritime export routes. That, and local coal reserves, funded the European-style splendour of the city’s mansions.
Although Punta Arenas is quite dry, it showered lightly during our visit. Thankfully, though, it was not windy, so we did not need to use ropes in the downtown area. City officials put these up in summer so that pedestrians can hold onto them when the winds are usually at their strongest.
The city has a lovely wide boulevard along the waterfront, wide streets with beautiful colonial buildings, many green areas, and plentiful monuments and statues and works of art.
Leaving Punta Arenas, we had our first taste of really rough seas. The captain avoided the worst of it by navigating different channels. Three sea days followed before we sailed into San Antonia to leave the ship for our next adventure. This has been our most interesting cruise by far.
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