Carnarvon Gorge - June 2021
Carnarvon Gorge is around 30 kilometres long, located in Carnarvon National Park, about 1,000 kms by road north west of Brisbane. Millions and millions of years have been taken to create this masterpiece of breathtaking beauty, which I feel very privileged to have finally visited.
Takarakka Bush Resort was the perfect base for our stay, with it being about a 10 minute drive to the Gorge entrance. We chose to stay in the Kookaburra Studio appartments, which are lovely self-contained cabins by Carnarvon Creek. I must admit we felt a little smug tucked into our luxurious warmth while other campers trudged to the amenities blocks in the chilly nights and mornings.
Takarakka means peace and tranquility, and the place is aptly named. Kangaroos lazed around the camp, but we had trouble spotting a platypus. We still enjoyed the tranquility of the pleasant hours we spent waiting by different pools and walking along the river, despite not spotting one. The birdlife was abundant, and so were butterflies.
We spent five nights here, which was a good length of time to allow mixture of walking and relaxation. The resort is well set up with camp kitchens and camp fire pits available for different sections. Our shared camp kitchen was well stocked with barbecues, microwave, stove tops, a freezer, and cooking implements.
Each afternoon there is a happy hour at the Bush Bar with reasonably priced drinks. At 5:00 each day a video presentation gives a good overview of available walks, park rules, etc. The shop sells souvenirs and some food items, and a few times a week a two course dinner is available. They advertise it as a hearty meal, but it wasn't that hearty, not especially tasty, and not served hot. I know I am spoiled at home by my personal cook, so we were not terribly impressed, but the chance to mix with other guests was fun.
Takarakka Bush Resort was the perfect base for our stay, with it being about a 10 minute drive to the Gorge entrance. We chose to stay in the Kookaburra Studio appartments, which are lovely self-contained cabins by Carnarvon Creek. I must admit we felt a little smug tucked into our luxurious warmth while other campers trudged to the amenities blocks in the chilly nights and mornings.
Takarakka means peace and tranquility, and the place is aptly named. Kangaroos lazed around the camp, but we had trouble spotting a platypus. We still enjoyed the tranquility of the pleasant hours we spent waiting by different pools and walking along the river, despite not spotting one. The birdlife was abundant, and so were butterflies.
We spent five nights here, which was a good length of time to allow mixture of walking and relaxation. The resort is well set up with camp kitchens and camp fire pits available for different sections. Our shared camp kitchen was well stocked with barbecues, microwave, stove tops, a freezer, and cooking implements.
Each afternoon there is a happy hour at the Bush Bar with reasonably priced drinks. At 5:00 each day a video presentation gives a good overview of available walks, park rules, etc. The shop sells souvenirs and some food items, and a few times a week a two course dinner is available. They advertise it as a hearty meal, but it wasn't that hearty, not especially tasty, and not served hot. I know I am spoiled at home by my personal cook, so we were not terribly impressed, but the chance to mix with other guests was fun.
Day 2 - Gorge Walk to Art Gallery, Ward's Canyon, Amphitheatre, Moss Garden and Nature Walk
This trip had been planned in conjunction with four more walking friends, but due to unforeseen circumstances they had to cancel. I was a little nervous about heading out alone on the first day, but I had been assured that there would be many people on the trails. This proved to be correct, and although I had the pleasure of peace and tranquility much of the time, there were plenty of walkers I passed during the day.
The track was well defined along the Gorge and basically follows Carnarvon Creek. Initially it is moderately uphill but then flattens out after the first couple of kilometres. Some of the side trips involve a bit of a gradient. There are several creek crossings, but stepping stones mean you don't have to get your feet wet. I decided to go as far as the Art Gallery on this day and do all the side trips on the way back. This turned out to be a good choice because the Art Gallery and the Amphitheatre were closed over the next three days for maintenance work.
This trip had been planned in conjunction with four more walking friends, but due to unforeseen circumstances they had to cancel. I was a little nervous about heading out alone on the first day, but I had been assured that there would be many people on the trails. This proved to be correct, and although I had the pleasure of peace and tranquility much of the time, there were plenty of walkers I passed during the day.
The track was well defined along the Gorge and basically follows Carnarvon Creek. Initially it is moderately uphill but then flattens out after the first couple of kilometres. Some of the side trips involve a bit of a gradient. There are several creek crossings, but stepping stones mean you don't have to get your feet wet. I decided to go as far as the Art Gallery on this day and do all the side trips on the way back. This turned out to be a good choice because the Art Gallery and the Amphitheatre were closed over the next three days for maintenance work.
To reach the Art Gallery you leave the main track, cross the river and do a gradual climb uphill. A sign is posted before you access the Gallery through a narrow rock opening. The Bidjara and Karingbal people advise you are entering a spiritual place and ask that you treat the site with care and respect.
As you come to the towering rock wall you are struck first by the spirit of the rock and its surrounding, then by the beauty of the art. Engravings, and stencilled and free-hand paintings adorn the wall. Signs along the boardwalk interpret the symbols and stories. The experience of being allowed to stand in this sacred place is humbling and you really need to give yourself plenty of time to appreciate it. I found it difficult to leave and would have been devastated to miss such a beautiful place. |
I returned to the main track still in awe and turned back towards the gorge entrance. My next side trip was to Ward's Canyon and required a steep climb around a waterfall.
The next side trip was to the Amphitheatre, a most amazing wonder accessed by a series of ladders and through a crack in the rock. It is a 60m deep chamber inside the walls of the gorge. The hushed atmosphere is almost eerie, but the acoustics are incredible.
By now I thought I could not be more impressed, but I was wrong. The Moss Garden was another surprise - a cool oasis of dripping green Ancient rain seeps down through sandstone and when it meets the impenetrable layer of shale, the water moves sideways trickling out from the wall and sustaining the mosses, ferns, and liverworts.
My final expedition for the day was to take an alternate path back to the visitors' centre. Before the final river crossing I followed the Nature Trail, a lovely gentle trail that winds along the river. I ended the day with tired feet and a happy heart.
Day 3 - Mickey Creek Gorge, Rock Pool, and Takarakka Tracks
I decided to give my weary feet time to recover with shorter walks and also spend some time with Reg. On the drive to the gorge entrance we stopped in for a coffee at the Wilderness Lodge Cafe, which had just reopened the day before. The cafe is a French Patisserie with in-house daily made pastries, as well as providing a great menu for breakfast and lunch.
I decided to give my weary feet time to recover with shorter walks and also spend some time with Reg. On the drive to the gorge entrance we stopped in for a coffee at the Wilderness Lodge Cafe, which had just reopened the day before. The cafe is a French Patisserie with in-house daily made pastries, as well as providing a great menu for breakfast and lunch.
After coffee we continued on the the gorge entrance so Reg could have a leisurely look around. On the way back I did a couple of short walks to the Rock Pool and Mickey Creek Gorge. On returning to Takarakka, I did some of the short walks around the resort, including a climb to their lookout over the gorge.
We ended the day at Happy Hour, followed by the resort's roast dinner. I believe that are short staffed after COVID closures, so perhaps that is why the meal was disappointing. People had to bring their own plates and cutlery, and you could BYO grog. It was an average meal, not served hot enough, and I wouldn't call it hearty as it is advertised. Definitely not worth the $35 cost. Still, on the plus side, it was a pleasant setting and we met some other guests who turned it into a fun night.
Day 4 - Boolimba Bluff
The return hike to Boolimba Bluff is only about 7 kilometres, but it is a steep climb above the cliff line. The reward of views over the gorge and towards distant ranges was worth every step. The Bluff towers 200 metres above Carnarvon Creek and you feel as if you are on top of the world. I set out early, but still met some other hikers along the way. One fellow at the top was a meteorological enthusiast, and happily gave me and some others a lesson on clouds as we gazed at the many different formations.
The return hike to Boolimba Bluff is only about 7 kilometres, but it is a steep climb above the cliff line. The reward of views over the gorge and towards distant ranges was worth every step. The Bluff towers 200 metres above Carnarvon Creek and you feel as if you are on top of the world. I set out early, but still met some other hikers along the way. One fellow at the top was a meteorological enthusiast, and happily gave me and some others a lesson on clouds as we gazed at the many different formations.
Day 5 - A Rest Day
I stayed close to our cabin today, enjoying a rest and some quiet time along the creek that flows nearby. No matter how early or how late I went to the river, the platypuses have eluded me. However, the kangaroos are not shy and are happy to come close. After a wonderful few days under gorgeous clear skies we ended our last day here, ready for the next part of our trip.
I stayed close to our cabin today, enjoying a rest and some quiet time along the creek that flows nearby. No matter how early or how late I went to the river, the platypuses have eluded me. However, the kangaroos are not shy and are happy to come close. After a wonderful few days under gorgeous clear skies we ended our last day here, ready for the next part of our trip.