Bowen and Collinsville - August 2020
Although I spent my high school years in Proserpine, I had never been to Collinsville, a coal mining town just 150 kilometres from Proserpine via Bowen. Reg’s dad was a coal miner in Acland, and he had long heard of Collinsville’s similar history. Now with COVID locking us in our state, we at last paid it a visit.
We left Proserpine early and decided to stop for breakfast at the famous Jochheim’s Bakery in Bowen. A Hugh Jackman chunky beef pie went down well, then it was back on the road heading inland to Collinsville. We passed through countryside with rich fields full of crops such as tomatoes, corn, mangoes. Crossing the Great Diving Range we reached our goal in the foothills of the Clarke Range. |
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Our first stop was at the very impressive Tourist Information Centre. Housed in an old cop shop and jail cells, it is beside the free caravan/RV rest area in the Showgrounds. A wealth of information is available, as is free WiFi, a book exchange, and a pleasant sitting area to take stock.
Armed with good local advice, we made the short drive to Scottville (well we had to, didn’t we?) Four kilometres south of Collinsville, this was a company town built by Bowen Consolidated Coal Mines. Much like Reg, it had its heyday, but is now quiet and sleepy. (Just joking. Reg is never quiet.)
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Then it was into the scrub in search of the historic Bowen River Hotel. About 4 kilometres south of town you turn west on a dirt track heading towards Strathmore Station. The road has a few sealed stretches, but mostly it is corrugated and dusty, crossing numerous cattle grids and river beds on single lane bridges. About 10 kilometres in we passed an amazing sight of millions of solar panels, generating power as one of the largest solar farms in the country.
We eventually passed Strathmore Station, and about 5 kilometres on, crossed the beautiful Bowen River. At the top of the other side, the Bowen River Hotel sat in a little oasis of shaded gardens. No doubt it has long been a welcome sight to many a thirsty traveller.
We sat on its pleasant veranda and sipped a cold beer as we watched a few other travellers amble in. The passing traffic also included grazing cattle. Over a light lunch and another drink, we read about the pub’s history thanks to information provided by the Collinsville Tourist Information Centre.
Originally established in 1861 as a homestead, it changed hands a few times before the first liquor license was issued in 1889. In 1905, the Hotel was the overnight stop for three mail services - one from Bowen, one from Claremont, and one from Exmore and Rockhampton. The building was donated to the National Trust of Qld by Ted Cunningham of Strathmore Station in 1974. After being abandoned for some years it was rebuilt in 2003 and opened as a pub again. The Bowen River Race Meeting, held here annually brings in up to 20,000 people.
If you continue on the road you can get to the Burdekin Dam, but we retraced our steps to spend the night in Collinsville. We stayed at the Pit Pony Motel, situated right behind the Pit Pony Hotel. The town is known as the Pit Pony Capital of Australia and everywhere around the town you are reminded of how much the town relied on these animals.
The pub served a very tasty rump steak to end our day. Next morning we were up at first light to watch the sunrise from the lookout. Luckily the local bakery opened early and served coffee. Then we headed for the town’s masterpiece - the Coalface Experience. It is open daily from 7am to 7pm, situated above the Workers Club and is a credit to the town. It is dedicated to the history of the coal mining industry. As you step into “the mine” you are presented with stories of struggle, strife and mateship through a range of interactive displays, audio-visual exhibits, two theatrettes, and historical records to bring the past alive. The quality of this museum is exceptional and provided far more value to us than the $8 entry cost. Do not miss this if you ever visit Collinsville.
If you know me, then you realise there was one last thing to do before departing town. A browse through the cemetery gave us a little more insight into the past, before heading back to Bowen.
Bowen is a place of streets so wide you almost need a cut lunch to cross. The old buildings are beautifully kept and adorned with many a mural depicting the town’s history. It is also a place of many beautiful beaches and parks, and these look stunning on sunny days.
We experienced so much on our little jaunt that it seemed much longer than the two days we had. The silver lining of COVID is that we have the chance to experience and appreciate our own back yard. Queensland is a wonderful state to be locked down in.