A stroll up to Piazza Republica along Via Nationale allowed us to do a spot of window shopping and gift buying, and then we visited the church of Santa Maria Maggiore and attempted to view its very special relics - wood fragments from Jesus' manger. We couldn't verify their authenticity as mass was being held and so were unable to see them. Another of Rome's oldest churches, it was constructed in A.D. 432 and is well-preserved. |
Our final day in Rome was highlighted by more blue sky and many more miles as we tried to suck up every last drop of beauty and magic before leaving this magnificent city. We began by venturing back to Capitol Hill and spending more time at the Victor Emmanuel monument. We had planned to take the lift to the top for a spectacular view if the city, but due to mechanical problems it was closed. We were still able to enjoy pretty spectacular views from the level we could reach by stairs. Before catching our train back to Florence we had lunch at a great little cafe which was the first place where we had eaten on arrival. It was cheap and cheerful and a fitting end to our short visit. Vivat diu Roma libera!
0 Comments
Thanks to the great Italian rail service, Pompeii was only a two hour trip away from our digs in Rome - a bit over an hour by fast train to Naples, then 45 minutes on the slower, local Circumvesuviana line to Pompeii Scavi (the Pompeii ruins). We set off to walk many miles again today, but this time at a more leisurely pace. The weather remained perfect and, although the tourists were there, the sheer size of this vast archeological site shrank them so that at times we felt like we were the only ones present. We had an excellent day, apart from the disgusting, not hot chips we had as our only food during the long day (note to future visitors - don't eat at the snack bar inside the site). Vesuvius looms over the remains of Pompeii which it wiped out in a massive eruption in A.D. 79. The peace and tranquility of the area today provides a wonderful atmosphere in which to explore the remains of this once grand Roman city. We wandered up and down the paved streets, marvelling at the ruts in the cobblestones made by the constant traffic of chariots, the stepping stones across the streets to allow pedestrians the cross when the streets were flooded each day with sea water to wash out the trash, the fast food joints with their serving pots still set into the counters, the baths, the bars, the brothels, the bakeries, the houses, the hotels, the shops, the vineyards, the theatres, and most eerily of all, the plaster casts of human forms frozen in time as the ash trapped them 2,000 years ago. It truly is an amazing snapshot of life in a bustling, ancient, trading city. It had a population of 20,000 when it was buried under 30 feet of volcanic ash and was not rediscovered until the 1600s. Excavations began in 1748, but there is still much yet to uncover.
Yesterday we covered many miles; today we covered many more. We set off early at a cracking pace to beat the lines at the Vatican Museums. We took the most direct route heading straight back to the Spanish Steps along Via Sistina, a long straight street that funnelled the early morning sunlight and warmed our backs as we walked. It was a treat getting to the Spanish Steps and actually being able to see them. We had them to ourselves and, despite the need for speed, we had to pause and admire the stunning views across Rome in the quiet, clear morning light. Then we headed in a straight line to cross the Tiber via the Ponte Cavour and reach the walls of the Vatican just in time to line up with thousands of other hopefuls. Damn! Still, the two hour wait in line passed by pleasantly enough thanks to the joys of people watching and due to the cheeriness that comes from being under a brilliant blue sky. The anticipation of what lay ahead also helped and we had time to prepare ourselves with detailed knowledge as we read from the bible on Rome according to Rick Steves. What can I say? The wait was well worth it and although I have been before, it was wonder anew. From the very first room your jaw drops as you gaze first upon the Egyptian mummies, coffins and statues. Next, it drops a little lower and your breath escapes as you spy the glorious sculptures of ancient Greece and Rome. Finally, it hits the floor as you walk the quarter mile of hallway housing sculptures, maps and tapestries that lead into the Raphael rooms. Here, in the living quarters of the Renaissance popes, you witness the rebirth of the ancient world in the Renaissance. Raphael (buried in the Pantheon) was only 25 when he began painting these walls in 1508 at the request of Pope Julius II. There are no words to describe the beauty and power of his work. While Raphael was painting these rooms, Michelangelo was at work painting the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, the place where new popes are elected. This is the place where your jaw would actually go through the floor except for the fact it is so crowded there is no more floor space. It is said that Raphael was even astonished when he saw this work which is considered by many today to be the single greatest work of art by any one human being. Amen to that.
Artistically exhausted, we left the museums and passed the still long lines waiting to get in. That cheered us up no end and we headed to St Peter's Square to be faced with thousands more tourists and another long line snaking through the piazza, all waiting to pass through security to enter one of the most famous churches in the world. The line actually moved quite quickly and gave us only a short time to admire this magnificent square with another Egyptian obelisk and a lovely Christmas tree dominating the centre. 2,000 years ago the square was the site of Nero's Circus where the half time entertainment during the chariot races was Christian killing. Peter was crucified here and his remains buried where the main alter now stands. He is recognised as the first pope from whom all other popes claim their authority. The mighty Michelangelo's presence again dominates in the dome which soars 448 feet to the heavens and the beautiful Pieta just inside the main entrance. Personally I love this work most of all his sculptures. How he brings such emotion and warmth to cold marble is beyond me. My friend, Rick says it is his only signed work. When he overheard some pilgrims praising the work, but giving credit to someone else, he chiselled, "Michelangelo Buonarroti of Florence did this" across the ribbon on Mary's chest. We eventually burst back into the sunlight of the square and began the long trek home via the Castel Sant'Angelo and across the Ponte Sant'Angelo, built by Hadrian and now adorned with bronze Bernini angels. The bridge was alive with hawkers plying their wares of fake Prada handbags, alphabet wooden trains, key rings and splatting gooey stuff. At the going down of the sun, the castle and bridge and river were set aglow like polished copper. It was a sight truly beautiful to behold. Another end to another perfect day you may be thinking? But wait, there's more. As we headed home we came upon a cheery Irish pub that beckoned us in to eat, drink and be merry. So we did.
Recharged, but feeling mellow and content, we strolled towards home under a full moon, past the massively monumental Victor Emmanuel edifice, past Trajan's Column, past the ruins of the Roman Forum, and stopped to gaze a while upon the Colosseum. It is quite something to see ruins hauntingly lit by moonlight. Now you can think ... what a perfect ending to a perfect day. Some people say why bother going somewhere if you have already been. This is my fourth trip to Rome and I hope not the last. Each time I enjoy rediscovering the familiar, but each time I learn something new and see something new that I hadn't even realised that I had missed before. Going back, taking your time, digging a bit deeper is like peeling the layers off an onion and discovering each time another layer beneath. We were blessed yet again with perfect weather for our four days here. The sky remained clear and blue, and the temperatures were like mild, winter days at home in sunny Queensland. We were down to short sleeves as we walked endless miles of the city. I have never taken public transport in Rome. By foot is the best way to see and feel the sights and use up some wine and pasta calories. We tramped from early morning to early evening every day and, by rights, should be a whole lot lighter than when we left home. Actually, I tell a lie. I had never used public transport until our arrival this time when we had to buy a Metro ticket to get to our hotel near the main Roma Termini train station. Somehow we had accidentally purchased a ticket to Roma Tiburtina Station, a few suburbs away. I am blaming my brother, Tony, but it could have been Molly's fault. It surely couldn't have been mine. :) Anyway, it was an adventure negotiating the subway and finding our way to our hotel. We made it no trouble, checked in with a warm welcome from the owners, dumped our bags, grabbed a quick bite to eat (when in Rome, eat pizza of course) and set off to do the Caesar shuffle.
After a quick refreshment stop in a cosy nearby Irish pub, we continued on our long march through history to reach the Pantheon. Approaching this 2,000 year old building from the back where it looks plain and shabby, belies its unbelievable interior beauty. The front begins to hint at its grandeur with 40 foot, single-piece granite columns soaring above and leading into a domed room which inspired Michelangelo's design for St Peter's in the Vatican. The Pantheon was built in 27 B.C., a Roman temple dedicated to all (pan) the gods (theos) and is the only ancient building in Rome that has been in continuous use since its construction. It now houses the tombs of modern Italy's first two kings and also that of the great artist Raphael. The Latin inscription on his tomb reads, "In life, Nature feared to be outdone by him. In death, she feared she too would die." The large circular opening at the top of the dome lets in the light and the heavens (including the rain) and the interior remains peaceful despite the hum of the throngs of tourists passing through. We eventually pulled ourselves away from this incredible building, passed more beautiful buildings and squares and obelisks (Rome has more Egyptian obelisks than any other place in the world - 13 and poor old Egypt has only five.) and wound our way to share the beauty and magic of the Trevi Fountain with a kazillion other people. It was packed, but we tossed our coins in to ensure our return to Rome. It has always worked for me so far, so I guess I can look forward to another visit. To round the day off we went home via the Spanish Step. Here were another kazillion people wondering around the streets and square and sitting on the steps, obliterating our view of them. We squeezed our way up to the top, pausing to admire a huge nativity scene on one landing and a towering Christmas tree on another. From the very top we gazed out upon the lovely sight of Rome with its buildings glowing warmly in the light of the setting sun. The Christmas lights decorating the streets began to twinkle and we set off home along the long Via Sistina to cap the evening off with a hearty Italian meal in a little restaurant close to our hotel. Thirsty from our long day and many miles, we ordered 4 big beers to start with. Our wide-eyed waiter tried to encourage us to order medium ones instead, but we were really thirsty and insisted on big ones. Well, BIG ones they were. Really BIG ones in fact. So big that we needed two hands to lift them, so we actually got a weight-training workout as well. We had expected a pint each, but these were a litre at least. Much laughter later we completed our meal and beers (which only cost €8 each) and slept like babies after our BIG day.
Reg particularly enjoyed the preparations as he got to hang out in his favourite parts of town - the Lorenzo food markets and the supermarkets. We joined the throngs of locals animatedly purchasing meat and vegetables for Christmas dinner and a delicious array of fruits, nuts, cheeses and cold meats for our snacking needs, not forgetting the essential sweet side of things like Panettone, Pan Forte and a lovely apple strudel for dessert. Our shopping Italian is getting quite impressive and we are now beyond just pointing, nodding and grunting. Capisco? A grog run to the supermarket was also required and produced a hearty, "Mama mia!" from the checkout chick as we unloaded our trolley. The prices here are amazing - too good to be true - so we were like kids in a lolly shop. I mean to say, Moët for €23, Veuve Clicquot for €25, big bottles of beer for €1, Scotch for €6, Mateus Rose for €3 ... need I go on? We loaded our backpacks for the short trip home and as the fridge was full of food, put the beer and wine in the outdoor chiller (our patio) which serves us just as well. Shopping done, we decided to eat lunch in a little osteria which is alway packed with locals just around the corner from our apartment. If you don't get there by midday, you don't get in because it is so popular. We were lucky to get on the end of one of the few long shared tables left. The atmosphere was full of noise and bustle as waiters and waitresses rattled off what was on the menu, took orders and served meals from the counter of the kitchen which was pretty much a part of the dining area. It was tiny with rough wooden tables and chairs, and no adornment of any kind, but it was full of atmosphere. The food on the menu was old fashioned, home cooked fare like hearty soups, tripe, rabbit, cannelloni, spaghetti, osso buco, and so on. After placing a carafe of rosé and several chunks of thick crusty bread on the table the waitress took our orders. We proceeded to have a fine meal begun with a vegetable soup so thick that the spoon could stand up in it. The boys had rabbit, Molly had chicken and I had cannelloni. The wine was good and we now understood why the place is always so full. It was a great Christmas Eve lunch which we completed with a delicious cassata gelato from our local gelato shop in the next street. We love where our apartment is located.
The morning was long and leisurely and we left Reg guarding the roasting meats as we took a stroll through the streets of a quiet Florence before lunch. The baby Jesus was now in the crib in the nativity scene outside the Duomo and many people were milling around the piazza enjoying the relatively warm day and Christmas spirit. No shops were open, but the streets were surprisingly full of people out walking. We headed down to the Arno, past outdoor David and along the river for a while before heading home. After a delicious home cooked lunch of baked Mediterranean vegetables, stuffed chicken and rolled pork stuffed with prunes and apricots, we lazed the afternoon away on the lounge, reading, chatting, napping and Skype-ing home. Dinner was our dessert which we couldn't fit in at lunch. Doing so much lazing around is really tiring so any early night was had by all. It really was a lovely day. Buon Natele everyone.
Today we took a bus trip through the beautiful rolling hills of the Chianti countryside on our way to Siena and San Gimignano. I don't know know how we do it, but yet again we happened upon the most glorious weather and deepest blue sky day imaginable for our trip into the heart of Tuscany. We chose a local tour company for this outing and on board the bus were greeted by our lovely Italian guide, Tytsianna. Well, she was the double of Dolly Parton in every way except for the bit her name implied. She was quite tiny really, but sounded just like Dolly and was a wealth of information about the area. It was market day when we arrived at Siena and the streets outside the walls were filled with stalls and cars and every person from miles around doing their weekly shopping. Once inside the walled medieval city it was much quieter. Siena was established as a military colony by the Romans in the first century B.C. and once enjoyed great wealth as a prominent city on the Via Romea, the pilgrims' route to Rome. A plague outbreak in 1348 killed two thirds of the 100,000 inhabitants and led to a decline that culminated in the city's handover to Florence. Medici rule curtailed its power, but in preventing new development, preserved its historic centre. Entering Siena, on Unesco's World Heritage list as the living embodiment of a medieval city, is like stepping back in time. We eventually dragged ourselves away from this delightful spot and approached the magnificent Duomo via a long staircase from the low streets behind the bell tower. Always stunningly beautiful in full Gothic style, it looked even more so towering up against a blue sky background. The church is as lovely inside as it is on the outside. After enjoying both we walked more of Siena's streets and took in some breathtaking view of the surrounding countryside from its walls. We lunched in a tiny local restaurant which had been a favourite haunt on our last visit here and the food was as good as we remembered. It was crowded with locals which made for a noisy, jolly atmosphere. With full bellies and hearts warmed by the local Chianti, we joined back up with the group to drive on to San Gimignano. Like Siena, San Gimignano lay on the main pilgrim route from northern Europe to Rome, but the plague had disastrous consequences leading to economic decline which, in the long run, preserved its medieval heart. From a distance, the sight of its 14 remaining towers looming like ancient skyscrapers is stunning. The original 72 towers built as lookouts by wealthy families must have looked simply amazing against the countryside backdrop. Its savage past of plunder and fighting is hard to imagine as one now strolls through its quiet, peaceful alleyways and quaint piazzas. The streets were quite empty while we were there which is one of the great benefits of travelling in the winter time. Before departing we witnessed a golden sunset which made the surrounding hills and vineyards glow softly in the fading light. Then, under the watchful eye of a waxing moon, we made our way back to Florence.
Today we tasted a little piece of Pisa and it was good. The morning was foggy as we caught an early train to Pisa Centrale Station, but it soon cleared to reveal a clear sunny day. On arrival we stopped for a warming cappuccino before tracking down the famous tower and, although the froth was beautifully adorned with chocolate dusted designs, we were ripped off. It was the most expensive dishwater we had tasted, but even so, it could not put a dampener on our day. We set off with great anticipation. This is not my first time here, but I knew I was going to be just as gobsmacked as I was on my previous visits. On the way we stopped to admire the gorgeous little church of Santa Maria della Spina which sits beside the Arno and supposedly houses a precious relic, namely a thorn from the crown of thorns worn by Jesus. We crossed the nearby bridge over the river which was very brown and swiftly flowing from recent heavy rain. And then we approached it. That first glimpse of the Leaning Tower caused us to gasp, just as it does to everyone, every time. It is still leaning, still gleaming. Its white marble looks especially pristine against a beautiful blue sky, and set in the green grassy Campo dei Miracoli (Field of Miracles) with the Cathedral and Baptistry, it is truly a magnificent sight. We drank it in and enjoyed being able to roam and explore leisurely with hardly any other tourists around. Begun in 1173, it is only due to the massive efforts of engineers that it still stands. The treacherous mix of sand and clay, 40 metres deep, caused not only the tower to lean, but also the Duomo, the Baptistry and several other bell towers throughout the town. On my first visit the tower was closed to climbers; on my second visit I climbed it, but it was surrounded by scaffolding as it was still being cleaned. In April 2011 work was complete and for the first time in 20 years it could be viewed free of scaffolding. This is how we saw it today, dazzling white like a delicately decorated tier of a wedding cake. On Tony's first visit it had also been closed to the public, so he was thrilled to climb it today. Only 40 people are allowed up at any one time, but tourists are so few at the moment that I think there were maybe 20 in our lot. We climbed the 300 stairs spiraling around its hollow core and emerged to a clear and breath-taking view of the surrounding area. The 7 bells at the top encircling the floor are quite beautiful, and each play a note of the scale, though no one knows why there are only 7 and not 8. The Baptistry Next we entered the Baptistry and had the place to ourselves. Silence is required, but even a whisper resounds gloriously due to the amazing acoustics. The famous Pisan scientist, Galileo was baptised here in 1246. After climbing more stairs to the gallery where we got a good overview we moved on to the Camposanto. Again we had this hauntingly beautiful place mostly to ourselves. The resting place for many prominent Pisans is a huge building arranged around a garden in a cloistered quadrangle. Soil shipped from the Holy Land during the crusades was spread here and is reputed to reduce cadavers to skeletons within days. Beautiful frescoes adorn the walls, but sadly many were destroyed by artillery during WWII. Finally we entered the Duomo, the magnificent cathedral which was begun in 1064. We enjoyed the hushed calm and beauty of its interior before bursting back into the brilliant sunshine and taking a hundred more photos which will fail to truly capture the awesomeness of this beautiful place. Pisa, however, is much more than the tower. We strolled through its medieval streets, enjoyed a late lazy lunch on Via Cavour, and then caught a late afternoon train back to Florence. I am so grateful that we got to visit on such a beautiful day with no crowds. We savoured the slowness of the day, enjoying every mouthful. Pisa is delicious.
Florence is as beautiful as I remember it, possibly made even more spectacular by the blue winter sky that greeted us on arrival. We easily located our apartment nestled in a narrow cobblestone street close to the train station and just around the corner from the Medici Chapel. Our first few days were glorious. The sun shone and we relished exploring the sights and shops. Then KAPOW! Down we went with some bug that put us all out of action for a couple of days. The only sightseeing we did for a while was looking down a toilet bowel as we heaved away. Well, on a positive note we think we each lost several kilos so that means good times ahead. We now feel ready to venture out again and face the world. Australia to Italy is a long way, but Cathay Pacific provided a comfortable enough trip with plenty of movies to fill those long 21 hours in the air. A 5 hour transit at Hong Kong Airport gave a chance to stretch our legs and even stretch out flat to nap for a while. And then we landed in Milan on a crisp clear -6 degree morning with a beautiful fireball sun that rose in the sky and shone on the snow dusted ground. There is nothing more beautiful than a sunny, winter day, no matter how cold it is. We took a bus into town and filled in a few more hours at the magnificent, bustling central station of Milan while waiting for the train to take us to Florence.
The cold gradually seeped in through our layers of clothing and into our bones, so it was with relief we boarded our heated train and enjoyed the scenery on our way to Florence. In less than two hours we were there and settled in to the apartment which will be home for the next month. The journey was oh so long, but also smooth and trouble free. Tired, but content, we slept like logs, preparing ourselves for good times ahead. |
Archives
March 2024
Categories
All
|