Sweden May 2018
Cooped up for 22 hours in a full plane to Europe is actually worth it if you step into the sunshine of a Swedish spring. Thanks to a Qantas lounge pass, complements of Sue, we began our journey in comfort at Brisbane Airport before boarding the l-o-n-g flight to Stockholm via Dubai. Our friends, Lennart and Anci were there to meet us and drive us to their home on the water at Nynashamn. We felt a little bad imposing on them as they had just moved in to their new house and were still settling in, but they were the most amazing hosts and made us feel so welcome.
Nynäshamn is a beautiful harbour town on the coast south of Stockholm. This was our third visit since we first met Lennart and Anci 25 years ago when we worked in Laos together. However, it was our first springtime here and we couldn’t stop being amazed by its beauty. We have been incredibly blessed with warm sunny days and flowers showing off at every turn.
We loved the long daylight hours, but our friends couldn’t understand why we rose with the dawn. Every morning before anyone in the town woke or the flowers opened, I walked, admiring the peace, the reflections on the water, the new buds bursting forth, all glowing in the soft, clear light that only early mornings can bring.
After breakfast we would explore. On the days Lennart and Anci had to work, we roamed close to home or headed into Stockholm by train. They were both kind enough to invite us to their schools and show us around. On the days they didn’t work, they took us to beautiful spots such as their summer house at Kanada on Muskö or to other islands in the Stockholm Archipelago.
Muskö
We love how the Swedes embrace each season fully and incorporate nature so fully into their lives. It seems that everyone owns a summer cottage somewhere by the sea, where they go to spend weekends and long summer holidays, swimming and cycling and hiking. Often the cottage has more than one building on the land - there will be a couple of sheds, which are more like additional smaller cottages for friends and family. Our friends’ cottage is on the island of Muskö ,perched on a cliff with a magnificent view of the Baltic. A wooden platform built over the water provides access for swimming, and a sauna with big glass windows overlooking the water and hillside provides views that would make one forget they were even sweating. There are decks and seating areas all over the property, where one can always find a spot to dine, sip a cool drink, read a book, or just relax with the view. Oh, and of course, the flowers were gorgeous.
We love how the Swedes embrace each season fully and incorporate nature so fully into their lives. It seems that everyone owns a summer cottage somewhere by the sea, where they go to spend weekends and long summer holidays, swimming and cycling and hiking. Often the cottage has more than one building on the land - there will be a couple of sheds, which are more like additional smaller cottages for friends and family. Our friends’ cottage is on the island of Muskö ,perched on a cliff with a magnificent view of the Baltic. A wooden platform built over the water provides access for swimming, and a sauna with big glass windows overlooking the water and hillside provides views that would make one forget they were even sweating. There are decks and seating areas all over the property, where one can always find a spot to dine, sip a cool drink, read a book, or just relax with the view. Oh, and of course, the flowers were gorgeous.
Oja
One day we drove further south and caught the ferry to Oja, the most southern island in the Stockholm Archipelago. Landsort is a small village on the southern tip of the narrow 5 kilometre long island, which comes alive in summer, but was relatively quiet when we visited. The many summer cottages were not yet occupied, but soon their families will come. We rambled over the rocky ground exploring the town, the old army installations, and the lighthouse. The original lighthouse was built in 1669, with a larger rebuild in 1870. It is Sweden’s oldest and most important lighthouse location.
One day we drove further south and caught the ferry to Oja, the most southern island in the Stockholm Archipelago. Landsort is a small village on the southern tip of the narrow 5 kilometre long island, which comes alive in summer, but was relatively quiet when we visited. The many summer cottages were not yet occupied, but soon their families will come. We rambled over the rocky ground exploring the town, the old army installations, and the lighthouse. The original lighthouse was built in 1669, with a larger rebuild in 1870. It is Sweden’s oldest and most important lighthouse location.
Gotland
Lennart and Anci took us by car on the ferry to Gotland for a three day sojourn. The three hour ferry trip was smooth and comfortable and, of course, we were blessed by more days of sunshine. Gotland’s strategic location in the Baltic Sea has meant it has been a vital trading hub since the days of the Vikings. It is quite a large island, so we were glad to have the car to explore widely.
A day spent driving around took us to the lovely settlement of Roma and to the east coast where we saw sleepy fishing villages, limestone rauks and Viking meeting places. Crossing through the middle of the island, we passed sweeping fields of green pastures and golden rape, scores of wooden churches, grazing cattle and colourful wild flowers.
On another day we hiked through the Högklint Nature Reserve along pathways following cliff tops that plunge into the sea. From the top are magnificent sea views. And the views from below are not bad either, though it takes some goat-footed scrambling skill to get down and back up.
We stayed in a lovely hotel in the medieval town of Visby and also enjoyed exploring its ruins and cobblestone streets, its well preserved city walls, its charming cottages and beautiful gardens. The museum was excellent, providing a fantastic overview of the island’s history, particularly the Viking and medieval periods.
Gotland was a wonderful weekend away.
Lennart and Anci took us by car on the ferry to Gotland for a three day sojourn. The three hour ferry trip was smooth and comfortable and, of course, we were blessed by more days of sunshine. Gotland’s strategic location in the Baltic Sea has meant it has been a vital trading hub since the days of the Vikings. It is quite a large island, so we were glad to have the car to explore widely.
A day spent driving around took us to the lovely settlement of Roma and to the east coast where we saw sleepy fishing villages, limestone rauks and Viking meeting places. Crossing through the middle of the island, we passed sweeping fields of green pastures and golden rape, scores of wooden churches, grazing cattle and colourful wild flowers.
On another day we hiked through the Högklint Nature Reserve along pathways following cliff tops that plunge into the sea. From the top are magnificent sea views. And the views from below are not bad either, though it takes some goat-footed scrambling skill to get down and back up.
We stayed in a lovely hotel in the medieval town of Visby and also enjoyed exploring its ruins and cobblestone streets, its well preserved city walls, its charming cottages and beautiful gardens. The museum was excellent, providing a fantastic overview of the island’s history, particularly the Viking and medieval periods.
Gotland was a wonderful weekend away.
Stockholm
Stockholm is only a 50 minute train ride from Nynashamn. The trains are smooth and quiet and clean, and the stations of Stockholm are huge art galleries.
One day we enjoyed wandering through the city, the old town and Kungstradgardten. The city is clean and modern with much construction going on. The old town is full of history in its buildings and cobblestone streets. Here lies the Royal Palace, old churches, museums (including the Nobel Museum), and many shops and restaurants. We had the most delicious buffet lunch for a very reasonable SEK115 (about $16) at a place here, though a glass of wine cost us as much as the entire meal. (Win on the roundabout, lose on the swings.) Kungsträdgården was once the kitchen garden for the royal palace and now provides a cool green space in this bustling city. It is famous for its cherry trees, though we just missed their blossoms which welcome spring. We were not too disappointed though, as the gardens were full of other colourful flowers in full bloom.
On another day I headed in for a day of fun at the ABBA Museum. Mama Mia, what a time I had!
Stockholm is only a 50 minute train ride from Nynashamn. The trains are smooth and quiet and clean, and the stations of Stockholm are huge art galleries.
One day we enjoyed wandering through the city, the old town and Kungstradgardten. The city is clean and modern with much construction going on. The old town is full of history in its buildings and cobblestone streets. Here lies the Royal Palace, old churches, museums (including the Nobel Museum), and many shops and restaurants. We had the most delicious buffet lunch for a very reasonable SEK115 (about $16) at a place here, though a glass of wine cost us as much as the entire meal. (Win on the roundabout, lose on the swings.) Kungsträdgården was once the kitchen garden for the royal palace and now provides a cool green space in this bustling city. It is famous for its cherry trees, though we just missed their blossoms which welcome spring. We were not too disappointed though, as the gardens were full of other colourful flowers in full bloom.
On another day I headed in for a day of fun at the ABBA Museum. Mama Mia, what a time I had!
The only sad touch to our time in Sweden was during our last days when we witnessed a fire that caused considerable damage to a beautiful, old, wooden water tower on the island just across from us. I had walked here early on in our trip and enjoyed gorgeous views from the top.
Our two weeks here were unforgetable, enjoying the beauty which is Sweden and spending time with our friends. We loved every minute and will never be able to thank them enough for how they looked after us. They allowed us to see their country in ways beyond what would have been possible for us as mere tourists. We lived in their lovely sunlit home, enjoyed the Baltic views through their big windows, ate the most delicious food, visited their schools, renewed friendships with their families, explored places near and far, had our never-ending questions answered happily, and laughed together a lot. Till we meet again Lennart and Anci ... thank you from the bottom of our hearts.