Amsterdam to Budapest May/June 2018
An Overview
I had always thought river cruises were terribly expensive compared to sea cruises, and while the upper market ones are, Gate One lives up to its slogan, “More of the world for less.” This Cruise was exceptional value when you consider, not only the inclusions, but also the quality. The rooms were very comfortable, especially the beds and pillows. There was plenty of storage space, well stocked toiletries, a safe, and though no balcony, the doors slide open to bring you closer to the river.
At every stop we were given a guided tour with outstanding local guides. These were either by bus or on foot in small groups, roughly around one to one and a half hours followed by free time to explore at leisure.
The smaller numbers on a river cruise provide a more intimate, relaxed atmosphere. Boarding and disembarkation and joining tour groups was easy and stress free. Simply collect and return your boarding pass at each stop, no lining up, no security checks.
The ship staff were exceptional - friendly, efficient and always ready to go above and beyond their roles. The captain was very amicable and approachable, our two dining room waiters were a lot of fun, and the cruise director and activities director were extremely organised, always giving more than was expected.
Food and activities generally reflected the area we were travelling through. Movies were shown on two channels and also pertained to the area. E.g. Monuments Men and Judgement at Nuremberg in Germany, The Sound of Music in Austria, etc. other channels included BBC, CNN and others.
The food was not as high quality or as great a variety on some ocean cruisers we have been on, but it was plentiful and tasty, and the wine and beer with dinner was also tasty, plentiful and included.
Cruising on a river is very soothing and we were always happy to watch the scenery go by. The waterway between Amsterdam and Budapest is a busy one and the passing traffic was always interesting, whether it be another cruise boat or a working barge transporting recycling waste, sand, goods, etc. These usually had a section at one end which housed the family operating the barge, as well as carrying the family car on top.
There were times, however, when it seemed we had the river to ourselves. Then it was most peaceful, listening to birds singing (rather than squawking like they do in Australia), watching locals fish or swim near the banks, or walk and cycle along the banks. Coming into summer, everything was green and fresh. Wildflowers dotted fields. Vineyards latticed slopes. Animals grazed in pastures. Some parts were low and flat, others were deep rocky gorges. Castles stood majestically on hilltops; caravan parks were plentiful by the water.
While we passed through some industrial areas, mostly it was rural countryside and pretty villages. All of it was wonderful and way beyond my expectations.
I had always thought river cruises were terribly expensive compared to sea cruises, and while the upper market ones are, Gate One lives up to its slogan, “More of the world for less.” This Cruise was exceptional value when you consider, not only the inclusions, but also the quality. The rooms were very comfortable, especially the beds and pillows. There was plenty of storage space, well stocked toiletries, a safe, and though no balcony, the doors slide open to bring you closer to the river.
At every stop we were given a guided tour with outstanding local guides. These were either by bus or on foot in small groups, roughly around one to one and a half hours followed by free time to explore at leisure.
The smaller numbers on a river cruise provide a more intimate, relaxed atmosphere. Boarding and disembarkation and joining tour groups was easy and stress free. Simply collect and return your boarding pass at each stop, no lining up, no security checks.
The ship staff were exceptional - friendly, efficient and always ready to go above and beyond their roles. The captain was very amicable and approachable, our two dining room waiters were a lot of fun, and the cruise director and activities director were extremely organised, always giving more than was expected.
Food and activities generally reflected the area we were travelling through. Movies were shown on two channels and also pertained to the area. E.g. Monuments Men and Judgement at Nuremberg in Germany, The Sound of Music in Austria, etc. other channels included BBC, CNN and others.
The food was not as high quality or as great a variety on some ocean cruisers we have been on, but it was plentiful and tasty, and the wine and beer with dinner was also tasty, plentiful and included.
Cruising on a river is very soothing and we were always happy to watch the scenery go by. The waterway between Amsterdam and Budapest is a busy one and the passing traffic was always interesting, whether it be another cruise boat or a working barge transporting recycling waste, sand, goods, etc. These usually had a section at one end which housed the family operating the barge, as well as carrying the family car on top.
There were times, however, when it seemed we had the river to ourselves. Then it was most peaceful, listening to birds singing (rather than squawking like they do in Australia), watching locals fish or swim near the banks, or walk and cycle along the banks. Coming into summer, everything was green and fresh. Wildflowers dotted fields. Vineyards latticed slopes. Animals grazed in pastures. Some parts were low and flat, others were deep rocky gorges. Castles stood majestically on hilltops; caravan parks were plentiful by the water.
While we passed through some industrial areas, mostly it was rural countryside and pretty villages. All of it was wonderful and way beyond my expectations.
Amsterdam 27/28 May
After a pleasant few days in Haarlem, our little group caught the train to Amsterdam to join our river boat, the Monarch Queen, for a trip to Budapest.
After a pleasant few days in Haarlem, our little group caught the train to Amsterdam to join our river boat, the Monarch Queen, for a trip to Budapest.
The next morning the streets were not as crowded when Gate 1 took us on a tour of the city by bus, foot and canal boat. It has been 10 years since we were last in Amsterdam and it was really interesting to become reacquainted with the city. We were pleased to have done the famous sites and museums in the past when they were less crowded, though I must admit I would be willing to fight the crowds to see the Van Gogh Museum again. Next time.
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Boarding was a piece of cake. Sandwiches (and cake) and coffee were served in the lounge until check in time, then we were delighted to unpack in our spacious cabins before heading out to explore the busy streets of Amsterdam. Busy might be an understatement. The crowds were unbelievable - all out and about on a sunny Sunday, shopping and sampling what the city has on offer. We decided to skip the ‘coffee shops’, cannabis lollipops (though a bargain at only €1) and red light district menus, and opted for a good old fashioned delicious ice-cream instead.
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We were blessed with blue skies and very warm sunshine, which generally make a place look more beautiful, and when we set sail in the afternoon, the waters of the canals were dazzling. We watched the hundreds of locals taking afternoon strolls along side our waterway, some people fishing, cows grazing as we left the city. We crossed under 6 bridges in the first hour. I am told we will pass under at least 400 more. We entered the first lock as a full moon rose. I am told we will pass through 67 more sets of locks. We slept like logs in very comfortable beds before the long twilight ended.
Nijmegen 29 May
We docked in the oldest town in the Netherlands this morning, but please don’t ask me to pronounce it. Our guided walk was very informative and we learned about Roman settlement, medieval times, and the importance of the town’s strategic situation so close to Germany’s border during the war.
We docked in the oldest town in the Netherlands this morning, but please don’t ask me to pronounce it. Our guided walk was very informative and we learned about Roman settlement, medieval times, and the importance of the town’s strategic situation so close to Germany’s border during the war.
This afternoon we left the Waal River and entered the Rhine, feeling very relaxed as we watched the passing scenery. We also left the Netherlands and entered Germany. Dark clouds brought a storm as night fell, but that soon passed and we were once again sleeping deeply while the boat sailed all night.
Cologne 30 May
I was on deck early as we sailed into Cologne this morning and was treated to the full moon hanging hauntingly over the cathedral. The indigo sky remained clear and turned deep blue as the sun burnt its way across the city. Our guided walk took us over cobblestone streets, past churches and beautiful houses, the town hall and finally ending at the cathedral, the centre piece of the city.
I was on deck early as we sailed into Cologne this morning and was treated to the full moon hanging hauntingly over the cathedral. The indigo sky remained clear and turned deep blue as the sun burnt its way across the city. Our guided walk took us over cobblestone streets, past churches and beautiful houses, the town hall and finally ending at the cathedral, the centre piece of the city.
The cathedral’s colour continues to darken as it is never cleaned due to too many different stone types. During its 600-year history of construction, over 50 different building stones were used. Pollution is not the only cause of discolouration. Apparently there are tons of plant and animal life living on the stones making up its own particular biome.
The cathedral was built to house the remains of the three wise men. Behind the high altar, their relics supposedly lie inside a large gilded and decorated sarcophagus.
The cathedral was built to house the remains of the three wise men. Behind the high altar, their relics supposedly lie inside a large gilded and decorated sarcophagus.
The Magi may have carried a gift of Myrrh, but Cologne presented the world with another famous scent. Remember 4-7-11 Eau de Cologne? It was made here, but was not the original. The original Eau de Cologne was created by the Italian family Farina, who migrated here in the Middle Ages. It smells much nicer than 4-7-11.
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Koblenz 31 May
The beautiful town of Koblenz was established as a Roman military post in 9 BC, where the Rhine and the Moselle Rivers meet, and has been an important defensive and economic centre for centuries. It has a beautiful river promenade which passes below a huge statue of William the Great on horseback. After our guided walk around the old town, we took the cable car across the river and up the hillside to the Ehrenbreitstein Fortress, from where we were treated to magnificent sweeping views of the Rhine and the countryside below.
The beautiful town of Koblenz was established as a Roman military post in 9 BC, where the Rhine and the Moselle Rivers meet, and has been an important defensive and economic centre for centuries. It has a beautiful river promenade which passes below a huge statue of William the Great on horseback. After our guided walk around the old town, we took the cable car across the river and up the hillside to the Ehrenbreitstein Fortress, from where we were treated to magnificent sweeping views of the Rhine and the countryside below.
The Rhine Gorge 31 May
By midday our ship set sail through the Rhine Gorge, a most scenic stretch of the river dominated by castles in various states of ruin, but all looking very majestic on their hills. We spent the whole afternoon on the top deck, drinking in the beauty and history. By late afternoon we farewelled the gorge as the countryside opened up around us at and sailed through the night to our next port of call. |
Wertheim and Miltenberg 1 June
We disembarked the ship at Miltenberg, and explored the very pretty old town on foot. It is nestled between the river and hills, and its medieval streets are lined with half-timbered houses and inns. Afterwards we were taken by bus to Wertheim, a small town located on the confluence of the rivers Tauber and Main, and re-boarded the ship here after some more exploring time.
We disembarked the ship at Miltenberg, and explored the very pretty old town on foot. It is nestled between the river and hills, and its medieval streets are lined with half-timbered houses and inns. Afterwards we were taken by bus to Wertheim, a small town located on the confluence of the rivers Tauber and Main, and re-boarded the ship here after some more exploring time.
Würzburg 2 June
Each day we say, “Well this has been the highlight so far.” Today was no different. Würzburg, a place I have never even heard of before, will now forever be etched in my memory. Some may have heard the name as it is known as the gateway to the Romantic Road, but its Baroque style residence of the Prince-Bishops place it firmly on the map for me. This is one of the finest palaces in Europe, almost as grand as Versailles or Catherine’s Palace in St Petersburg. The grand staircase and vaulted, frescoed ceiling above it are breathtaking. The fresco is the largest ceiling fresco ever painted and its grandeur is probably the cause of many sore necks and falls on stairs because you just can’t draw your eyes away from it.
The rest of the palace is also grand and ornate, full of frescos and gold and tapestries and mirrors and other works of art, all forbidden from being photographed thanks to those annoying tourists who won’t refrain from using their flashes. So we photographed it with our eyes and then went into the gardens where we were assaulted by colours and scents of beautiful blooms, of which the rose garden was prominent.
Our guide here was exceptional, but we left him in the town square and made our way back to the river via a market square where a wine festival was in progress. Greg made our day by buying us a beautiful long stemmed, red rose each. We partook in some wine with the locals on the old stone bridge before walking back to our boat to spend a leisurely afternoon cruising through quiet countryside.
Each day we say, “Well this has been the highlight so far.” Today was no different. Würzburg, a place I have never even heard of before, will now forever be etched in my memory. Some may have heard the name as it is known as the gateway to the Romantic Road, but its Baroque style residence of the Prince-Bishops place it firmly on the map for me. This is one of the finest palaces in Europe, almost as grand as Versailles or Catherine’s Palace in St Petersburg. The grand staircase and vaulted, frescoed ceiling above it are breathtaking. The fresco is the largest ceiling fresco ever painted and its grandeur is probably the cause of many sore necks and falls on stairs because you just can’t draw your eyes away from it.
The rest of the palace is also grand and ornate, full of frescos and gold and tapestries and mirrors and other works of art, all forbidden from being photographed thanks to those annoying tourists who won’t refrain from using their flashes. So we photographed it with our eyes and then went into the gardens where we were assaulted by colours and scents of beautiful blooms, of which the rose garden was prominent.
Our guide here was exceptional, but we left him in the town square and made our way back to the river via a market square where a wine festival was in progress. Greg made our day by buying us a beautiful long stemmed, red rose each. We partook in some wine with the locals on the old stone bridge before walking back to our boat to spend a leisurely afternoon cruising through quiet countryside.
Bamberg 3 June
Many more locks were navigated last night and during the morning as we continued down the Main River. We passed the last of the many low bridges around 9am, so the upper deck was reopened, though it has been most pleasant enjoying the passing scenery at water level from the lounge or our bedrooms.
During the morning we entered the 36th lock since leaving Amsterdam, and the final one on the Main River. Leaving it we were then 230 metres above sea level.
Many more locks were navigated last night and during the morning as we continued down the Main River. We passed the last of the many low bridges around 9am, so the upper deck was reopened, though it has been most pleasant enjoying the passing scenery at water level from the lounge or our bedrooms.
During the morning we entered the 36th lock since leaving Amsterdam, and the final one on the Main River. Leaving it we were then 230 metres above sea level.
We were transported by bus into Bamberg after lunch and a jovial local guide took us on our walk around the old town, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. More cobblestone streets, stone bridges and pretty houses (of which we never tire) were encountered in this city with a huge student population. Their Saturday night revelries were evident in the many empty beer bottles around the town.
Bamberg boasts an impressive number of traditional breweries. Our little group found a nice biergarten where we sampled the local specialty - Rauchbier (smoked beer), which tasted a lot like smoked sausage - not at all unpleasant, but one is enough.
Bamberg boasts an impressive number of traditional breweries. Our little group found a nice biergarten where we sampled the local specialty - Rauchbier (smoked beer), which tasted a lot like smoked sausage - not at all unpleasant, but one is enough.
Nuremberg 4 June
I had been looking forward to visiting Nuremberg due to its historical importance for the trials held here after WWII, but it also has a well preserved old town with a magnificent castle upon a hill and well preserved city walls. We began with a visit to Zeppelin Field, only to be disappointed by limited access due to the massive rock festival held here over the weekend. Over 70,000 people had attended and the thousands of tents and tons of litter they left were still in evidence as the stragglers left on this Monday morning.
The Nazi party rally grounds covered about 11 square kilometres in the southeast of Nuremberg. Six Nazi party rallies were held there between 1933 and 1938. Now the area is kept as a memorial, and also used for rock festivals.
The Palace of Justice was an impressive building, and we saw the windows behind which the war trials were held.
I had been looking forward to visiting Nuremberg due to its historical importance for the trials held here after WWII, but it also has a well preserved old town with a magnificent castle upon a hill and well preserved city walls. We began with a visit to Zeppelin Field, only to be disappointed by limited access due to the massive rock festival held here over the weekend. Over 70,000 people had attended and the thousands of tents and tons of litter they left were still in evidence as the stragglers left on this Monday morning.
The Nazi party rally grounds covered about 11 square kilometres in the southeast of Nuremberg. Six Nazi party rallies were held there between 1933 and 1938. Now the area is kept as a memorial, and also used for rock festivals.
The Palace of Justice was an impressive building, and we saw the windows behind which the war trials were held.
Regensburg 5 June
Through the night we reached the watershed at the highest point of the Main-Danube Canal - 404 metres above see level having passed through more locks than I can keep count of, then began descending towards the Danube via many more locks. We have had a beautiful morning of cruising through green countryside splashed with red poppies, some more castles on cliffs, the odd fisherman taking life easy by the water, and the sounds of birds singing melodiously, unlike our raucous ones at home. We left the canal and joined the Danube around 11 am (and now I have that waltz playing in my head), before enjoying the delicious Bavarian lunch provided on board.
Through the night we reached the watershed at the highest point of the Main-Danube Canal - 404 metres above see level having passed through more locks than I can keep count of, then began descending towards the Danube via many more locks. We have had a beautiful morning of cruising through green countryside splashed with red poppies, some more castles on cliffs, the odd fisherman taking life easy by the water, and the sounds of birds singing melodiously, unlike our raucous ones at home. We left the canal and joined the Danube around 11 am (and now I have that waltz playing in my head), before enjoying the delicious Bavarian lunch provided on board.
After lunch we took our guided tour of Regensburg on foot. It is one of the best preserved historic cities in Germany because it suffered no major damage in WWII. It was first settled by the Celts in about 500BC, the Romans in 179 AD, and became the capital of Bavaria in the Middle Ages. It lies at the confluence of the Danube, Naab and Regen rivers.
We crossed its famous stone, 12th century Old Bridge, which was used by the crusaders en route to the Holy Land, though there was a diversion over one section. It was due to re-open the next day after eight years of closure for repairs. Missed by one day. We walked more cobblestone streets, looked inside another cathedral (there are a great many Catholic Churches in Bavaria), and drank another beer (there are a great many breweries and beer-gardens in Bavaria).
After dinner on board, we were treated to live entertainment by a German Oompa band.
We crossed its famous stone, 12th century Old Bridge, which was used by the crusaders en route to the Holy Land, though there was a diversion over one section. It was due to re-open the next day after eight years of closure for repairs. Missed by one day. We walked more cobblestone streets, looked inside another cathedral (there are a great many Catholic Churches in Bavaria), and drank another beer (there are a great many breweries and beer-gardens in Bavaria).
After dinner on board, we were treated to live entertainment by a German Oompa band.
Passau 6 June
Passau sits at the confluence of three rivers in Germany, close to the borders of Austria and Czech Republic. The Danube is joined there by the Inn from the south and the Ilz from the north. Passau is another town of universities bringing in a huge student population. It is a beautiful place, having survived many devastating floods, the last of which was in 1913. The outstanding building here was the cathedral. St Stephen’s is filled with space and light, and beautiful bright frescos, unlike the dark interior of many other churches we have seen recently. The organ, made up of 17,974 pipes and 233 registers is the largest in the world.
Passau sits at the confluence of three rivers in Germany, close to the borders of Austria and Czech Republic. The Danube is joined there by the Inn from the south and the Ilz from the north. Passau is another town of universities bringing in a huge student population. It is a beautiful place, having survived many devastating floods, the last of which was in 1913. The outstanding building here was the cathedral. St Stephen’s is filled with space and light, and beautiful bright frescos, unlike the dark interior of many other churches we have seen recently. The organ, made up of 17,974 pipes and 233 registers is the largest in the world.
At midday we continued sailing, while enjoying a live stream of the State of Origin. Since being joined by the River Inn at Passau, the Danube has turned a milky grey colour. At 2 pm we left Germany and entered Austria, followed soon after by the disappointing loss of the Origin game by Qld. Fortunately we were cheered up by the spectacular scenery, though a wild storm eventually chased us off the top deck, and shortly after we were informed that due to a technical fault, only one chamber of the next lock was in operation, so we would have a two hour wait to get through. Luckily, it was repaired quickly and we made it to the beautiful little village of Aschach in time to spend a leisurely hour wandering the streets and river front while waiting for the passengers who took the optional Salzburg tour to return.
Melk 7 June
An early start today, and a cloudy, cooler one, but nothing could dim the beauty of Melk Abbey set on a hilltop above the Danube. This Benedictine Abbey was originally a palace. Again we were not allowed to take photos inside so you will have to trust me when I say it was truly splendid. Most impressive was the church (grander than any seen to date) and the library containing some 80,000 volumes of priceless works. Since 1089, Benedictine monks have continually been living and working in the Abbey.
An early start today, and a cloudy, cooler one, but nothing could dim the beauty of Melk Abbey set on a hilltop above the Danube. This Benedictine Abbey was originally a palace. Again we were not allowed to take photos inside so you will have to trust me when I say it was truly splendid. Most impressive was the church (grander than any seen to date) and the library containing some 80,000 volumes of priceless works. Since 1089, Benedictine monks have continually been living and working in the Abbey.
We returned to the ship via the narrow town streets and set sail through the Wachau Valley, another UNESCO World Heritage Site of great beauty. Along the banks there are ruins of castles, terraced vineyards, and medieval towns. More leisurely sailing through the afternoon took us to Vienna where we docked overnight.
Today was also special as we celebrated Frank’s 70th birthday. In the evening we dined in the intimate specialty restaurant at the back of the boat.
Vienna 8 June
Into Vienna from where we docked was a half hour bus ride. The sky was a little cloudy today so we didn’t see Vienna in its best light, but it is still a magical city. It is full of beautiful buildings, cafes and statues commemorating the city’s heroes. After our introductory tour we did some more wandering, spent time at the Spanish Horse School, and also caught up with friends of Helen and a friend of Jayne’s for coffee.
Into Vienna from where we docked was a half hour bus ride. The sky was a little cloudy today so we didn’t see Vienna in its best light, but it is still a magical city. It is full of beautiful buildings, cafes and statues commemorating the city’s heroes. After our introductory tour we did some more wandering, spent time at the Spanish Horse School, and also caught up with friends of Helen and a friend of Jayne’s for coffee.
Back on board we continued cruising. The crew let their hair down and put on a show for us full of funny skits. In the early evening we sailed through Slovakia.
Budapest 9 June
Our two weeks of cruising ended here. We sailed into this beautiful city under grey skies and our bus and walking tour was through drizzle. This did not completely hide the magnificence of Budapest though. We docked near the Bridge which was very accessible to the main sights. In the afternoon the weather cleared and we walked along the esplanade to Parliament House, a most spectacular building. Nearby we viewed a special memorial of many bronze shoes by the Danube, marking the place where a great number of Jews were shot and dumped in the river by the Hungarian Nazis in 1945.
Our two weeks of cruising ended here. We sailed into this beautiful city under grey skies and our bus and walking tour was through drizzle. This did not completely hide the magnificence of Budapest though. We docked near the Bridge which was very accessible to the main sights. In the afternoon the weather cleared and we walked along the esplanade to Parliament House, a most spectacular building. Nearby we viewed a special memorial of many bronze shoes by the Danube, marking the place where a great number of Jews were shot and dumped in the river by the Hungarian Nazis in 1945.
Our last evening meal aboard was a delicious feast of Hungarian fare, and we were later treated to a fireworks display over the river. The city lights looked very pretty in the evening, with all the bridges and monuments and majestic buildings lit up like strings of sparkling jewels. Next morning we toasted farewell to our friends with champagne at breakfast before disembarking.
We had a couple more days here before heading off, so we were able to explore and enjoy more of this wonderful city. The weather cleared and got very hot, but we walked far and wide and interspersed our journeys with ice-cream stops and beer stops at several of their outdoor cafes. The pictures tell the story.