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Greece April 2019
Our many trips to Greece only make our love for this country grow. Last year when we were in Athens for a few days, Reg, full of the country’s joy (and retsina), put out the call for friends to join us here the following year. Of course we got quite a few responses, but our good friends Roberta and John got in first. John had joined us on a road trip here about 8 years ago, and he was eager to return and show Roberta the beauty of this country. So plans were made, they flew in from the U.S. and we met up in Athens. We felt doubly blessed, reuniting with good friends and travelling through our beautiful Greece. The weeks that followed were filled with lots of laughter, breathtaking scenery, narrow backroads, gorgeous villages, delicious food, friendly locals, and much much more.
We struck gold right from the word go. Our apartment in Athens, where we stayed for a few days at the beginning and the end of our holiday, was excellent. Though tiny, it had two bedrooms, a bathroom, a kitchen and lounge, excellent WiFi, and a central position in close proximity to Plaka, Syntagma and all the major sights of the city. On top of that, our host was exceptional. Konstantinos was cheerful, hospitable and very helpful. He brought us fresh strawberries and other local treats of wine and pastries. He had our laundry done and would not accept payment; instead he asked we donate money or purchase sandwiches for some homeless people. He helped me out when I left our passports in the hotel safe in Corfu, paying the courier service on delivery and holding them till our return to Athens.
He gave us excellent suggestions for restaurants and places to see and they always proved to be tops. If you need a great place to stay in Athens - Athens Heart Apartments are outstanding value in every way. You can check out their website or book direct through Kon's WhatsApp number - +30 698 733 4557.
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Athens 7-10 April
Athens decided to drown us in rain on our first day, then tried to blow us away on the second. That did not stop us exploring a few shops and introducing Roberta to some local sites. The wind nearly toppled us at the Acropolis, but we dug our heels in and persisted. The tavernas and cafes rekindled our spirits and warmed our hearts to face whatever the weather threw at us.
Athens decided to drown us in rain on our first day, then tried to blow us away on the second. That did not stop us exploring a few shops and introducing Roberta to some local sites. The wind nearly toppled us at the Acropolis, but we dug our heels in and persisted. The tavernas and cafes rekindled our spirits and warmed our hearts to face whatever the weather threw at us.
Athens to Delphi 10 April
We decided to collect our hire car from the airport so we could avoid the city traffic. We christened our GPS Nana Mouskouri, after the Greek singer, and set off in search of Delphi, the navel of the world/centre of the universe. Due to our unfamiliarity with the GPS system and Nana being a little outdated, it took some finding. We circuited the same roads a few times (paying the same toll thrice) before leaving the city lights, then settled in to admire the countryside. We made a detour to Port Germeno via some narrow, quiet country roads, and were rewarded with scenic mountains, fields full of wildflowers, and some magnificent views of the Gulf of Corinth.
We decided to collect our hire car from the airport so we could avoid the city traffic. We christened our GPS Nana Mouskouri, after the Greek singer, and set off in search of Delphi, the navel of the world/centre of the universe. Due to our unfamiliarity with the GPS system and Nana being a little outdated, it took some finding. We circuited the same roads a few times (paying the same toll thrice) before leaving the city lights, then settled in to admire the countryside. We made a detour to Port Germeno via some narrow, quiet country roads, and were rewarded with scenic mountains, fields full of wildflowers, and some magnificent views of the Gulf of Corinth.
Port Germeno was an ancient Greek fortified port city. The ancient citadel retains several of the tallest surviving towers of ancient Greece. There is only a small permanent population of about 80, but in the summer numbers swell as it is a popular beach side resort.
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Nana then had us heading way too far north (more towards the head than the navel), so we had to resort to good old map reading and deciphering Greek road signs to finally reach Delphi, perched on the edge of a mountain high above the Gulf of Corinth. We checked into a hotel overlooking the gulf and valley, and ate in the most wonderful restaurant overlooking the same. Please visit the Phivos Restaurant if you are ever in Delphi. The food is delicious, the owners are so friendly, the prices are low, and the view is awesome. We went for a beer and were given a plate of free mezzes, we went for dinner and were given a free dessert of yoghurt and honey, we went for coffee and were given free fat slices of honey cake. The average main meal cost about 6 Euros. I don’t know how they survive.
Delphi to Meteora 11 April
Delphi, in the 6th century B.C., was the religious centre and symbol of unity of the ancient Greek world. It lies on Mt Parnassus, is where the oracle of Apollo spoke, and was the site of the omphalos, the 'navel of the world'. One wonders not only how they constructed this ancient wonder high in the mountains, but also how pilgrims were able to make their way here. It was difficult enough for us with modern roads and a modern vehicle.
We rose early to beat the bus loads of tourists and school children to the archeological site. We left our car in town and hiked the short distance down the hill to the entry. We then followed the sacred way ever higher up the mountain past the ancient ruins, leading as far up as the theatre. Sadly, the stadium was closed to the public, which was very disappointing as I remember this being such a lovely setting with incredible views. Still, we had quite a satisfying feast of views and history.
We later went down to the Sanctuary of Athena Pronaia, and also to the museum, before heading to Meteora.
Delphi, in the 6th century B.C., was the religious centre and symbol of unity of the ancient Greek world. It lies on Mt Parnassus, is where the oracle of Apollo spoke, and was the site of the omphalos, the 'navel of the world'. One wonders not only how they constructed this ancient wonder high in the mountains, but also how pilgrims were able to make their way here. It was difficult enough for us with modern roads and a modern vehicle.
We rose early to beat the bus loads of tourists and school children to the archeological site. We left our car in town and hiked the short distance down the hill to the entry. We then followed the sacred way ever higher up the mountain past the ancient ruins, leading as far up as the theatre. Sadly, the stadium was closed to the public, which was very disappointing as I remember this being such a lovely setting with incredible views. Still, we had quite a satisfying feast of views and history.
We later went down to the Sanctuary of Athena Pronaia, and also to the museum, before heading to Meteora.
The road to Meteora was quite scenic through mountains and valleys. We payed close attention to our map and road signs, not yet ready to put complete faith in Nana. We checked into a small hotel in the village of Kalabaka at the base of Meteora, which was in an excellent position, but was a bit dowdy and dark. This turned out to be our least favourite hotel of the trip, but the beds were comfy and the breakfast good.
Meteora 11- 14 April
Meteora - magical, mystical, spiritual, serene - words can not do it justice. Nature’s grandeur and man’s interaction with it (not sure whether it is mastery, submission or an harmonious fusion of both) combine to produce jaw dropping moments of amazement to visitors. We arrived late in the afternoon and our first close up experience was gazing upon the rocks that loomed above our balcony, dark against the evening sky.
Meteora - magical, mystical, spiritual, serene - words can not do it justice. Nature’s grandeur and man’s interaction with it (not sure whether it is mastery, submission or an harmonious fusion of both) combine to produce jaw dropping moments of amazement to visitors. We arrived late in the afternoon and our first close up experience was gazing upon the rocks that loomed above our balcony, dark against the evening sky.
The overwhelming rock formations change mood with the weather and time of day. We were lucky enough to experience many of these moods - under brilliant sunshine and grey clouds, misty mornings and star sprinkled evenings. Here the vertical cliffs were regarded as the perfect place to achieve absolute isolation, to discover peace and harmony and, thus, to support man’s eternal struggle for spiritual elevation. While visitors may experience some spiritual elevation, the absolute isolation has been disturbed.
The first monks arrived in the 14th century, establishing an entire monastic community on top of giant cliffs. Of the original 24 monasteries, six are still functioning and are open to tourists. Of course not all parts are accessible to the public, and visiting hours are in force. Each monastery charges 3 Euros to enter for those willing to make the climb.
We drove the circuit around the monasteries and marvelled at the incredible views, not only of the monasteries themselves perched high on rocky outcrops, but also at the distant snow capped mountains and scenery far below.
The first monks arrived in the 14th century, establishing an entire monastic community on top of giant cliffs. Of the original 24 monasteries, six are still functioning and are open to tourists. Of course not all parts are accessible to the public, and visiting hours are in force. Each monastery charges 3 Euros to enter for those willing to make the climb.
We drove the circuit around the monasteries and marvelled at the incredible views, not only of the monasteries themselves perched high on rocky outcrops, but also at the distant snow capped mountains and scenery far below.
Our first visit was to the Monastery of the Holy Trinity, built in 1475, and today inhabited by only four monks. In the old days monks and pilgrims reached the monastery with the help of a rope-ladder and the traditional net. 140 steps were hewed on the rock in 1925, and they now lead visitors to the monastery after they have passed a narrow path at the bottom of the rock. Nowadays, there is also a funicular for carrying products and materials. Part of the monastery was used as the setting for the final scenes of the James Bond film For Your Eyes Only.
The Monastery of St Stephen, run by nuns, was the easiest to visit. Visitors cross a small foot bridge to enter. According to early evidence, its foundation is dated to the end of the 12th century. About 100 years ago, more than 30 monks lived in the monastery, but in 1960 it was almost deserted. In 1961 the monastery became a convent and the present community consists of 28 nuns.
The Monastery of Great Meteoron, erected in the mid 14th century, is the largest, the oldest and the most important of the monasteries located at Meteora. There are over 300 steps leading down from the car park and then up the cliff to the complex. In its prime there were over 300 monks, but now there are only three.
Meteora to Corfu 4 April
Nana took us on a bit of a wild goose chase to start off with, on a narrow winding road through mountains and isolated villages. Eventually we joined the Egnatia Odos Motorway, an impressive feat of engineering taking us over big bridges and through long tunnels all the way to Igoumenitsa, where we caught the ferry to Corfu. Thankfully John mastered the boarding quite well, despite the narrow squeeze. The ferry was very comfortable and the crossing smooth, taking about an hour and a half.
Nana took us on a bit of a wild goose chase to start off with, on a narrow winding road through mountains and isolated villages. Eventually we joined the Egnatia Odos Motorway, an impressive feat of engineering taking us over big bridges and through long tunnels all the way to Igoumenitsa, where we caught the ferry to Corfu. Thankfully John mastered the boarding quite well, despite the narrow squeeze. The ferry was very comfortable and the crossing smooth, taking about an hour and a half.
Corfu 14 - 18 April
With its many one way streets, Nana became more confused than us as we tried to find accommodation near the old townsfolk Corfu. Many school groups had booked many hotels out - this being the last week of term, school trips were popular - so, after much searching and many knock backs we ended up splurging and staying at the Corfu Palace. This grand old hotel was on the edge of the old town, with beautiful views of the old fort and across the bay. The rooms were huge and the breakfast outstanding, and we could park the car out front.
With its many one way streets, Nana became more confused than us as we tried to find accommodation near the old townsfolk Corfu. Many school groups had booked many hotels out - this being the last week of term, school trips were popular - so, after much searching and many knock backs we ended up splurging and staying at the Corfu Palace. This grand old hotel was on the edge of the old town, with beautiful views of the old fort and across the bay. The rooms were huge and the breakfast outstanding, and we could park the car out front.
Corfu is the most northerly of the Ionian Islands and her history is rich from various periods of time - Classical Greek, Byzantine, Roman, Venetian, French, and British. It is 60 kilometres long and 30 wide. We loved the island and were glad we had allocated four nights here. It has a totally different vibe to the other Greek islands we have visited. We explored the old town on foot and the length and breadth of the island by car. At the end of our daily wanderings we would sit on our balcony, sipping wine, gazing at the view and the moon growing fatter each night. Then we would find a nice taverna in the old town before retiring exhausted from our glorious Greek adventures. I shall let the pictures tell the story.
Nafpaktos 18 April
After indulging in our final delicious breakfast at the Corfu Palace, we caught an early ferry back to the mainland. The sea was like glass and the early morning serene. We watched the old town and fortress slip away from sight and turned our eyes to Igoumenitsa. Our run from Igoumenitsa was on good roads all the way to Nafpaktos. We lapped up the passing scenery of lakes and mountains and green fields sprinkled with wildflowers and grazing sheep.
After indulging in our final delicious breakfast at the Corfu Palace, we caught an early ferry back to the mainland. The sea was like glass and the early morning serene. We watched the old town and fortress slip away from sight and turned our eyes to Igoumenitsa. Our run from Igoumenitsa was on good roads all the way to Nafpaktos. We lapped up the passing scenery of lakes and mountains and green fields sprinkled with wildflowers and grazing sheep.
Nafpaktos was an overnight stop for us on the way to the Peloponnese, but it’s imposing castle above the town and its beautiful seaside position made us wish we had longer here. We stayed in a lovely hotel of pastel colours, waterfront views, and warm, friendly staff. I can highly recommend the Akti Hotel - very affordable, with breakfast included, excellent WiFi, colourful interior decorating, and close to restaurants.
It was here though, that I had my one and only panic attack of the trip. As I went to find my passport to check in I realised that I had left it locked in the safe of our hotel room in Corfu. Actually, both passports, travel papers, cash, and Reg’s wallet were there. Luckily, due the the kindness of many, we were able to organise a courier to deliver it to Athens, where our generous landlord accepted delivery, paid for it, and kept it safe until our return.
The full moon crossing the night sky over the Gulf of Corinth calmed me down and reminded me that this was only a slight hiccup on our travels.
The full moon crossing the night sky over the Gulf of Corinth calmed me down and reminded me that this was only a slight hiccup on our travels.
Olympia 19 - 20 April
We crossed the Gulf of Corinth to Patras via the mighty Rio–Antirrio Bridge. We had to sacrifice an arm and a leg to pay the expensive toll (15 Euros), but then it was smooth driving to Olympia via the north-west coast of the Peloponnese. The town of Olympia looks more modern since our last visit, spruced up with newly paved streets and some new hotels, but it is still a quiet little place in a peaceful setting. Our hotel was only a short walk to the archeological site. On our arrival Roberta and I took a rather extended hike past the site and up the mountain behind it, in search of the International Olympic Academy. After several kilometres we gazed upon it from a distance, and decided it was way too far away, so turned around and headed back. |
The following day we all visited the site together and listened to Roberta describe the ruins, reading from Rick Steve’s excellent guide book. The serenity of the site is hard to better. We were blessed with a blue sky, warm weather and pink blossomed trees amongst the lush green vegetation and marble ruins. We always feel at peace in Olympia, and we can well understand why this beautiful spot was chosen to hold the ancient games. The extensive ruins include athletic training areas, a stadium and temples dedicated to the gods Hera and Zeus.
The Olympic Games were held without a break from 776BC to 393 AD, a period of 1169 years, before an edict of Theodosius I prohibited all pagan festivals. In 426 BC Theodosius II ordered the destruction of the sanctuary. Then came successive earthquakes and river floods and Olympia remained forgotten under a layer of debris 5-7 metres deep. It was not until 1766 that the ancient sanctuary was re-discovered.
The Olympic Games were held without a break from 776BC to 393 AD, a period of 1169 years, before an edict of Theodosius I prohibited all pagan festivals. In 426 BC Theodosius II ordered the destruction of the sanctuary. Then came successive earthquakes and river floods and Olympia remained forgotten under a layer of debris 5-7 metres deep. It was not until 1766 that the ancient sanctuary was re-discovered.
There are several museums in Olympia, but we thoroughly enjoyed visiting the Museum of the History of the Ancient Olympic Games, a relatively new one opened in 2004. It operates in the renovated building of the first Archaeological Museum built in 1985. We spent hours here reading about the history of the games and looking at related archaeological finds.
Another museum new to us was the delightful Archimedes’ Museum, a small museum where an engineer has built (according to ancient plans from the 3rd century BC to 1st century AD) and displayed machines invented by Archimedes and others of his time. Don’t miss it if you ever find yourself in Olympia. It is truly amazing. Entry is free.
Another museum new to us was the delightful Archimedes’ Museum, a small museum where an engineer has built (according to ancient plans from the 3rd century BC to 1st century AD) and displayed machines invented by Archimedes and others of his time. Don’t miss it if you ever find yourself in Olympia. It is truly amazing. Entry is free.
Among our favourite exhibits was a wine pouring robot (3rd Century BC), a contraption to turn water into wine (1st Century AD, the first door alarm/warning system (1st Century AD), the hydraulic clock of Archimedes - the first clock with tickings (3rd century BC),
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Nafplio 21- 24 April
Nana Mouskouri really let us down today as we made our way to Nafplio. She took us on a confusing, obscure route through the mountains on the narrowest, winding roads we have faced yet. These roads have to be seen to be believed. Honestly, there are some stretches not wide enough to pass another vehicle. Luckily other traffic was rare, and it is only thanks to John’s expert driving we made it through those mountains alive. For those few moments we weren’t gripping the seats, white knuckled, with eyes glued to the road, we were able to glimpse the most gorgeous of views. We passed through one pretty village that was perched on a hillside in many tiers. As we drove along the narrow road that wound through it we watched many people wandering home from church, probably having prayed for the safety of surviving their next road trip to the outside world.
We finally rejoined a wider road that took us through Tripoli and safely on to Nafplio, with no thanks to naughty Nana.
Nana Mouskouri really let us down today as we made our way to Nafplio. She took us on a confusing, obscure route through the mountains on the narrowest, winding roads we have faced yet. These roads have to be seen to be believed. Honestly, there are some stretches not wide enough to pass another vehicle. Luckily other traffic was rare, and it is only thanks to John’s expert driving we made it through those mountains alive. For those few moments we weren’t gripping the seats, white knuckled, with eyes glued to the road, we were able to glimpse the most gorgeous of views. We passed through one pretty village that was perched on a hillside in many tiers. As we drove along the narrow road that wound through it we watched many people wandering home from church, probably having prayed for the safety of surviving their next road trip to the outside world.
We finally rejoined a wider road that took us through Tripoli and safely on to Nafplio, with no thanks to naughty Nana.
Here we struck another problem with finding accommodation. The Easter holiday break had started and many hotels were full. We finally found something which was quite above our budget, but it was centrally located and very luxurious, and it was available. If you want to splurge a little, stay at the Xenon on Syntagma Square. Every room is individually decorated, all have spas. We could take one room for three nights (it had a round bed and television the size of one entire wall) and the other couple would need to have one night in a room with a huge sunny balcony, then move to the huge suite (which was extra cost again) for two nights. We decided to split the total bill and toss a coin for the rooms. We won the jackpot and lazed in the lap of luxury, and yes Roberta and John, I do feel a bit bad about it, even though Reg doesn’t.
The breakfast turned out to be our best yet, even better than the Corfu Palace. The orange juice was freshly squeezed, the omlettes were melt in your mouth perfect, the pastries light and flaky, and the yoghurt thick and creamy. Basically, it was breakfast heaven. Even if you never stay in the hotel, do yourself a favour and go to the restaurant for breakfast.
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Once our accommodation was sorted we then got down to the business of enjoying this beautiful city, which was the first capital of the newly born Greek state between 1823 and 1834. It is situated on the Argolic Gulf in the northeast Peloponnese. Most of the old town is on a peninsula jutting into the gulf. Above it looms Palamidi Castle, 216 metres above sea level. Roberta and I climbed its 999 steps carved into the rock and then some more as we explored the castle. The climb was quite manageable as we stopped regularly to admire the magnificent view spreading out below. The fortress was built by the Venetians during their second occupation of the area (1686 - 1715) and also became a prison in later years.
After climbing back down the hill, we followed a wide paved path around the base of Akronafplia, the historic rock at the foot of Palamidi Hill which comprised the walled settlement of Nafplio from ancient times until the end of the 15th century. Signs warned of falling rocks and one huge one had crashed right in the middle of the path.
The path eventually wound its way to the waterfront of the old town and Bourtzi, the Venetian fortress on the rocky islet of Agioi Theodoroi, came into view. It sits in the middle of the city’s harbour, and is admired by many who sit sipping coffee or cocktails in the cafes that line the promenade.
Bourtzi was built by the Venetians in the 15th century and during their rule it was connected to Akronafplia through a huge metal chain that secured the port against enemy ship attacks. The fort was home to executioners for several decades, after it stopped serving a military purpose. The men who spent their days carrying out death sentences of criminals incarcerated in the Greek prison of Palamidi in the latter half of the 19th century lived alone on an island, because most people did not want to live near them. |
Having a few days in Nafplio allowed us time to explore further afield. One day we drove across to Epidaurus, then followed the scenic coastal road south to the small village of Galatas. We parked here and took a short ferry ride across to the island of Poros, where we admired island life and the many beautiful yachts in its harbour.
On the way back we had time to visit the ancient site of Epidaurus, another of our favourite places in the Peloponnese to sit and marvel at the genius of the ancient Greeks. Epidaurus is mostly famous for its ancient theatre, which was constructed in the late 4th century BC to host religious ceremonial events in honour of the god Asclepius, whose healing centre was located a few steps away. It is famous for its symmetry and the incredible acoustics. Sitting at the top of the theatre gave us a wonderful view of the lush green surrounds and the beautiful valley below.
Athens 24 - 30 April
The drive from Nafplio was uneventful. Nana Mouskouri behaved for once and we delivered the car in one piece back to the airport without getting lost at all. The scenery along the way was lovely as always - rugged mountains, wildflowers, and coastal views of the waters of the Saronic Gulf once we crossed the Corinth Canal. Our only disappointment was that we crossed the canal so quickly we missed the lookout point. We have always loved pausing here in the past and looking down at the sheer steep walls of this narrow canal.
We caught the bus back to central Athens after returning the car and enjoyed letting someone else take responsibility for navigating through streets and traffic. Athens wrapped her arms around us and welcomed us back. Our landlord did the same. It felt like coming home.
The drive from Nafplio was uneventful. Nana Mouskouri behaved for once and we delivered the car in one piece back to the airport without getting lost at all. The scenery along the way was lovely as always - rugged mountains, wildflowers, and coastal views of the waters of the Saronic Gulf once we crossed the Corinth Canal. Our only disappointment was that we crossed the canal so quickly we missed the lookout point. We have always loved pausing here in the past and looking down at the sheer steep walls of this narrow canal.
We caught the bus back to central Athens after returning the car and enjoyed letting someone else take responsibility for navigating through streets and traffic. Athens wrapped her arms around us and welcomed us back. Our landlord did the same. It felt like coming home.
Roberta had only another full day with us before flying home, so we did some wandering to admire the beautiful buildings of the National Library, University and Academy of Arts. On the recommendation of Kon, our landlord, we also visited the small, lesser known Museum of the City of Athens on Klafthmonos Square.
The museum focuses with particular emphasis on Athens since the city became the capital of the Greek state. Its permanent exhibition includes items from the household of the first royal couple and pieces of furniture, paintings and other objects of the bourgeois Athenian families of Vouros and Eutaxias, who lived in the two buildings that house the museum. The older of the two buildings, known as the Old Palace, was used as the residence of King Otto and Queen Amalia between 1836 and 1842.
Other sightseeing included the nearby trilogy of neo-classical buildings including the National Library, the Academy of Athens and the original building of the Athens University. To end the day we had a farewell dinner together at Zorba’s Taverna in the Plaka, again on the recommendation of Kon. This proved to be one of our best meals yet, so we are happy to always heed his advice.
The museum focuses with particular emphasis on Athens since the city became the capital of the Greek state. Its permanent exhibition includes items from the household of the first royal couple and pieces of furniture, paintings and other objects of the bourgeois Athenian families of Vouros and Eutaxias, who lived in the two buildings that house the museum. The older of the two buildings, known as the Old Palace, was used as the residence of King Otto and Queen Amalia between 1836 and 1842.
Other sightseeing included the nearby trilogy of neo-classical buildings including the National Library, the Academy of Athens and the original building of the Athens University. To end the day we had a farewell dinner together at Zorba’s Taverna in the Plaka, again on the recommendation of Kon. This proved to be one of our best meals yet, so we are happy to always heed his advice.
Good Friday in the Greek Orthodox calendar dawned warm and sunny. A tiny church is outside our apartment, so tiny that there is not enough room for many worshippers to fit inside, and so it broadcasts its service outside with speakers. The sing song chanting of the priest wafted up to our windows on this holiest day of the Orthodox calendar before we headed out to walk in the pleasant weather. Roberta had caught an early morning flight so now we were three. Our feet led us through the quiet paved streets of the Plaka to the lovely wide tree-lined pedestrian area that passes by the New Acropolis Museum, past the Theatre of Dionysus, and on around the base of the Acropolis and beautiful park surrounds. Families were out strolling in the clear, tranquil morning, vendors were setting up their stalls along the way, and all the while the white marble of the Parthenon was visible against the blue sky. A cold beer fortified us before completing our circuit via Monastiraki.
We dined that night at the Piazza Duamo, an outdoor restaurant just opposite the cathedral and only a short distance from our apartment. The Good Friday service was about to be held and a large crowd was gathering in the cathedral square, along with priests, politicians and cameramen. It was the perfect spot to view the service and procession of the epitaphios. Bands, soldiers, and the navy marched in, and a heavy police presence was obvious. After a long period of chanting of hymns, the procession began - first a wooden cross bearing candles held high, then the dark-suited dignitaries, the clergy wearing gold vestments and flat black hats, then the casket covered in rich cloth, and finally the flower covered bier holding a guided cloth, the representation of Christ. They walked from the cathedral to Syntagma Square along Mitropoleous Street, followed by the people holding candles, a solemn, slow procession in the clear, quiet night.
On Easter Saturday we leisurely roamed the Plaka area, doing some last minute shopping, indulging in another souvlaki in pita ((in case it was our last), and just enjoying the glorious spring sunshine. Having convinced the men that we should be up for the midnight celebrations to welcome Christ’s resurrection, we decided to take an afternoon nap and head out late for dinner. At 10pm we nabbed an excellent outdoor table outside the little church in Monasteraki Square where we enjoyed food and wine over the following two hours as we people watched.
At midnight the bells peeled and a priest appeared holding a lighted candle taper reciting the phrase “Avto to Fos”, which means “This is the light.” He lit several of the onlookers’ candles, who in turn then lit their neighbour’s candles. This light comes from a ritual conducted for over 1,200 years. The ‘Holy Fire’ is lit at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem (where they believe Jesus was crucified, buried and resurrected). The light is then flown into Athens on a specially chartered flight and received by the Metohi tou Panagiou Tafou church in Plaka where candles are lit and then dispersed to churches throughout the Attica region in time for the start of resurrection services.
The chanting of hymns continued through the subsequent fire crackers being let off all around the city. We had read that fireworks light up the sky, but maybe firecrackers must suffice as part of Greece’s austerity measures. If Christ hadn’t already risen from the dead, the noise of the firecrackers certainly would have waken him. We were surprised that the crowd was not as big as we expected, but as we walked past the cathedral towards our hotel we discovered greater numbers. People were everywhere with their candles flickering. Dignitaries were just moving off, the band and military marched off, and people disappeared into the night, probably home to a great feast previously prepared to break their Lent fast. |
Easter Sunday was a slow start. Around midday we wandered down to Monasteraki and the sound of music and smell of roasting meat wafted up the streets to meet us. Most shops, except for eating places, were closed and church doors shut, but Monasteraki was a hive of activity. Whole lambs and kokoretsi (seasoned offal wrapped in intestines) were turning over spits and cafes and tavernas were filling up with hungry diners. Easter Sunday is a feast of lamb served in honour of the lamb of God.
We just had to sample the kokoretsi so we found a table and ordered a plate and three big beers to wash it down. The dish was very similar to something we had tried in Turkey years ago. The seasoning of lemon, olive oil, oregano, salt, pepper, and garlic, and the outer crunchy skin from roasting over coals made it quite delicious.
We just had to sample the kokoretsi so we found a table and ordered a plate and three big beers to wash it down. The dish was very similar to something we had tried in Turkey years ago. The seasoning of lemon, olive oil, oregano, salt, pepper, and garlic, and the outer crunchy skin from roasting over coals made it quite delicious.
Easter Monday was a very quiet day in Athens. Shops remained closed and the streets quiet as families relaxed at home after all the Easter festivities. We made the long walk through the magnificent sunshine to the National Archaeological Museum, probably our favourite museum in the world. Its treasures depict the wonderful, rich history of Greece and we never tire of gazing upon them. The beauty of the sculptures especially enthrall us. Reg’s favourite remains the bronze statue of a horse and young jockey, and mine, the magnificent Poseidon (though there is some thought that it may be Zeus). Either way, there stands a god! Both statues are captured in an exquisite rendering of motion and anatomy and both were found in the sea off Cape Artemision. |
After our long, lingering afternoon at the museum we counted down to our departure by enjoying our ‘lasts’ - last dinner, last sunset, last walk in the Plaka, last breakfast of yoghurt and honey, last view of the Acropolis. There is always a touch of sadness saying goodbye to Greece, but our hearts are full (and our tummies). It has been another incredible trip here, with a wonderful blend of new discoveries and familiar re-acquaintances. We shall never grow tired of Greece.
We can’t thank Roberta and John enough for their warm companionship throughout the trip. It is wonderful to travel with friends who are so easy to get on with, who share our joy of food and exploration, who laugh often, and who now love Greece almost as much as we do. And we are eternally grateful to John for his excellent navigation of some very tricky roads, allowing us to live another day to plan another trip.
We can’t thank Roberta and John enough for their warm companionship throughout the trip. It is wonderful to travel with friends who are so easy to get on with, who share our joy of food and exploration, who laugh often, and who now love Greece almost as much as we do. And we are eternally grateful to John for his excellent navigation of some very tricky roads, allowing us to live another day to plan another trip.
Roadside shrines
Wherever you walk or drive in Greece you will see roadside shrines, some small and some quite significant in size, but always well tended. Some are built to act as a remembrance of traffic accident victims, others to publicly thank a saint for survival. Another reason for these shrines is a way to indicate that there is a monastery or church in the vicinity, especially in less populated areas where the church might be completely out of sight. In every shrine is an icon of a saint, one or more kandyli (a floating wick oil lamp), flowers and personal items. It is a custom that every anniversary relatives and loved ones pay a visit to the shrine. This tradition represents the Greeks’ outlook on religion, family ties, remembrance of family history, culture and finally fate. These roadside shrines remind one to appreciate every second and every opportunity to be alive. Greek people
Greeks are passionate, happy, friendly people. Almost everyone we met was cheerful and warm and kind. Their sense of humour is refreshing. They laugh readily and help willingly. Life to them seems to be a feast - to be enjoyed and shared. |
Food
What can you say? There is no question that they make the best yoghurt, the best beans, the best calamari, the best souvlaki, the best pita, the best salads. The ingredients are fresh, the tastes divine. And then there is the wine. Most places serve a reasonable (and often really good) house wine at very affordable prices. And to top off all this deliciousness, little acts of culinary kindness abound. Most restaurants bring you a small sweet treat at the end of a meal, free of charge.
What can you say? There is no question that they make the best yoghurt, the best beans, the best calamari, the best souvlaki, the best pita, the best salads. The ingredients are fresh, the tastes divine. And then there is the wine. Most places serve a reasonable (and often really good) house wine at very affordable prices. And to top off all this deliciousness, little acts of culinary kindness abound. Most restaurants bring you a small sweet treat at the end of a meal, free of charge.