Romania June 2018
After an enjoyable few days in Budapest we caught the train to Braşov. We left from Keleti Station, the Eastern terminus, which is a very beautiful building. It was constructed between 1881 and 1884 as one of the most modern railway stations of Europe. Our train had very few passengers so we were able to stretch out until we hit the border. Then the train filled and became very hot as the air con struggled. It was a long 14 hour trip. Luckily we had read there were no refreshments on board so we stocked up well to see us through.
Through Hungary and the first part of Romania the land was wide and flat with many crops being farmed. The border crossing was fairly quick, but officers both sides of the border were very thorough in scrutinising our passports. My first impressions of Hungary were that the land looks rich, but the buildings poor. The crops were plentiful, the fields lush, the animals healthy. Houses and train stations we passed looked run down, with plaster falling off and roofs in disrepair. In some places whole building complexes were deserted.
Brasov
As night fell we started to enter more hilly terrain and unfortunately were not able to enjoy the most scenic part of the journey. We arrived in Braşov close to midnight and tried in vain to find our hotel , which was supposed to be a part of the station complex. The thing we quickly discovered here is very little English is spoken. With an almost deserted station, two security guards seemed to understand our quest and took us under their wing. When they took us to the luggage storage area we thought they had misunderstood us, but no, they had not. The luggage lady took us to platform 1 and let us in an unidentifiable side door that led to our hotel room.
The room was simple, but clean and spacious, and it was so good to lie down and sleep. Next morning we were refreshed and ready to explore. We took bus a to the historical centre after eventually working out the system. With our non-existent knowledge of the language, it took some doing. We found the ticket sellers, counter staff, and bus drivers to be surly and unhelpful, yet the person on the street very kind. A lovely lady (who it turns out knows English from working on cruise ships) stopped to help us buy our train tickets to get to Bucharest in a few days, and also explained the bus system to us.
We first got on the wrong bus to town - the one the grumpy lady in the ticket office told us to take. Learning quickly to ask the younger generation for help (they have reasonable English), we changed buses and our day became brighter.
The sky was blue, the weather warm, but milder than Budapest, and the old town was very pretty. A huge Hollywood style sign looks down on the town from Mt . The streets are full of outdoor cafes and beckon enticingly. What could we do, but order a cold beer and sit and sip and enjoy our surroundings?
The room was simple, but clean and spacious, and it was so good to lie down and sleep. Next morning we were refreshed and ready to explore. We took bus a to the historical centre after eventually working out the system. With our non-existent knowledge of the language, it took some doing. We found the ticket sellers, counter staff, and bus drivers to be surly and unhelpful, yet the person on the street very kind. A lovely lady (who it turns out knows English from working on cruise ships) stopped to help us buy our train tickets to get to Bucharest in a few days, and also explained the bus system to us.
We first got on the wrong bus to town - the one the grumpy lady in the ticket office told us to take. Learning quickly to ask the younger generation for help (they have reasonable English), we changed buses and our day became brighter.
The sky was blue, the weather warm, but milder than Budapest, and the old town was very pretty. A huge Hollywood style sign looks down on the town from Mt . The streets are full of outdoor cafes and beckon enticingly. What could we do, but order a cold beer and sit and sip and enjoy our surroundings?
After our initial trials (which we consider very small) we really enjoyed our stay here. Braşov is in the centre of the country and a great place to stay for exploring Transylvania. We decided against visiting the castle that inspired the Count Dracula story due to limited time and having had our fill of castles on the Rhine and Danube, so we explored more of the old town and surrounds instead.
A highlight was taking the fernicular up Mt L for a wonderful view of the town below. I left Reg at the station at the top and hiked on further up the mountain to the BRAŞOV sign and then higher again for more breathtaking sights. The path was very rocky and slippery due to recent rain, but it was well worth it. Some young girls from Beirut, who were huffing and puffing along the trail and kindly took some photos for me, told me I had a very young spirit, which I took as a compliment.
A highlight was taking the fernicular up Mt L for a wonderful view of the town below. I left Reg at the station at the top and hiked on further up the mountain to the BRAŞOV sign and then higher again for more breathtaking sights. The path was very rocky and slippery due to recent rain, but it was well worth it. Some young girls from Beirut, who were huffing and puffing along the trail and kindly took some photos for me, told me I had a very young spirit, which I took as a compliment.
Bucharest
Our time in Braşov was short, but enjoyable, and a somewhat gentle introduction to Romania. Bucharest, on the other hand, was a bit of a shock.
We caught a morning train to the capital, enjoying some spectacular mountain scenery along the way, before the land flattened out again to crop farming. We arrived at Gara de Nord, Bucharest’s main railway station, around midday and found our hotel just across the road.
We caught a morning train to the capital, enjoying some spectacular mountain scenery along the way, before the land flattened out again to crop farming. We arrived at Gara de Nord, Bucharest’s main railway station, around midday and found our hotel just across the road.
Our time in Bucharest was interesting, to say the least. We struggled with communication, not so much because of language but because of attitudes. People were generally abrupt and not interested in trying to be helpful, especially ticket sellers, counter staff and others in the service industry. The few information desks we found were anything but informative. A response to our questions was often a shrug of the shoulders. We could find no maps and no one to point us the way in the city centre. Even the hotel staff couldn’t tell us.
Finally, on my 3rd attempt at tackling the bus ticket office, an angel from the crowd stepped up to help me. The young women patiently interpreted for me and answered all my questions and helped me purchase a transport card. Hallelujah!
While waiting for the bus a bird pooped on me. Someone once told me this was a sign of good luck. I was hopeful, but wondered if it was my time to have some shit dumped on me. Anyway, we caught our bus and it turned out the old town and main city sights were only a 3 kilometre ride away.
My luck seemed to be holding, for as we entered the old town a group was gathering for a free guided walk. I joined this and happily accepted the map handed out (I was almost convinced there were none in existence in this city). With this in my hands I suddenly felt more secure and more in control. Alice, who led the 2 hour walk around the old town, was a wealth of knowledge and a very good English speaker.
The old town has had some revival and is a cheerier part of the city than the railway area and other neighbourhoods we passed through. While there are still signs of decay and buildings and pavements in need of attention, many have been spruced up.
Finally, on my 3rd attempt at tackling the bus ticket office, an angel from the crowd stepped up to help me. The young women patiently interpreted for me and answered all my questions and helped me purchase a transport card. Hallelujah!
While waiting for the bus a bird pooped on me. Someone once told me this was a sign of good luck. I was hopeful, but wondered if it was my time to have some shit dumped on me. Anyway, we caught our bus and it turned out the old town and main city sights were only a 3 kilometre ride away.
My luck seemed to be holding, for as we entered the old town a group was gathering for a free guided walk. I joined this and happily accepted the map handed out (I was almost convinced there were none in existence in this city). With this in my hands I suddenly felt more secure and more in control. Alice, who led the 2 hour walk around the old town, was a wealth of knowledge and a very good English speaker.
The old town has had some revival and is a cheerier part of the city than the railway area and other neighbourhoods we passed through. While there are still signs of decay and buildings and pavements in need of attention, many have been spruced up.
After the tour Reg and I went to Caru’ cu Bere, a very popular traditional beer-house, which also serves traditional Romanian food. We tried sarmale, the unofficial national dish of cabbage rolls stuffed with minced pork and beef. The meal was accompanied by mamaliga, a cornmeal porridge (think polenta) topped with sour cream and a green hot pepper.
|
When in Rome (or Romania) one must do as the locals do, so we ordered a traditional dessert, which was much like a large donut topped with blueberries and cream. With our bellies full, our trusty map in hand, and our new found mastery of the bus system, all seemed well with the world.
Well, that was to be short lived. On catching the bus home I could not get the tap-on machine to register the second fare no matter how much I tried. Others around me on the bus just looked and shrugged. And of course, what should happen at the next stop, but ticket inspectors got on and did a check. No amount of explaining and pleading would soften their hard hearts. Only one person’s fare was registered, the second, not. One passenger tried to stick up for us saying she saw us try (at least I think that is what the lady was doing), but she soon cowered under their authoritarianism and looked down as she meekly folded her hands in her lap. Their machine was broken, but that was no excuse. We had broken the law. We must pay an on the spot fine of 50 lei. To make matters worse, I had no cash, so he took my ID (I guess so that I didn’t try to get away) and accompanied us to a cash machine when we got to the station. When I paid the fine he gave me a receipt and returned my ID. The whole episode was infuriating because it was due to their faulty machine, but what can you do? Luckily 50 lei is only worth about $17, but it was not a very pleasant experience.
We were a little nervous to take public transport after that, so the next day I walked to do my sightseeing. I hate to be so judgmental, but Bucharest is quite a depressing place. Its years under communist rule took their toll on the country, the people, the infrastructure, the buildings. The city generally has an unhappy air. We didn’t see people smiling, or notice any children around. Not only were the buildings run down, but the public parks and gardens were overgrown and untended. Even the monstrous Palace of Parliament looked depressing, rather than spectacular. The exterior looks a little dilapidated, but maybe my view was clouded by recalling it was built under Nicolae Ceauşescu during a period of high economic hardship in Romania.
To be fair, I did not see inside. A tour can be taken of a small section of the interior to see a luxurious display of crystal chandeliers, mosaics, oak paneling, marble, gold leaf, stained-glass windows and floors covered in rich carpets.
The colossal Parliament Palace, formerly known as "People's House", is the world's second largest administrative building after the U. S. Pentagon. Its construction began in 1984 and initially should have been completed in only two years. The term was then extended until 1990, but even now it is not finished. It took over 100,000 workers and 700 architects to build the structure that boasts 12 stories, 1,100 rooms, a 350 foot long lobby and eight underground levels, including an enormous nuclear bunker. Thousands of people died in connection with the construction, not to mention the starving population in general. Today, due to its sheer size, it costs the country millions per year to run.
We were a little nervous to take public transport after that, so the next day I walked to do my sightseeing. I hate to be so judgmental, but Bucharest is quite a depressing place. Its years under communist rule took their toll on the country, the people, the infrastructure, the buildings. The city generally has an unhappy air. We didn’t see people smiling, or notice any children around. Not only were the buildings run down, but the public parks and gardens were overgrown and untended. Even the monstrous Palace of Parliament looked depressing, rather than spectacular. The exterior looks a little dilapidated, but maybe my view was clouded by recalling it was built under Nicolae Ceauşescu during a period of high economic hardship in Romania.
To be fair, I did not see inside. A tour can be taken of a small section of the interior to see a luxurious display of crystal chandeliers, mosaics, oak paneling, marble, gold leaf, stained-glass windows and floors covered in rich carpets.
The colossal Parliament Palace, formerly known as "People's House", is the world's second largest administrative building after the U. S. Pentagon. Its construction began in 1984 and initially should have been completed in only two years. The term was then extended until 1990, but even now it is not finished. It took over 100,000 workers and 700 architects to build the structure that boasts 12 stories, 1,100 rooms, a 350 foot long lobby and eight underground levels, including an enormous nuclear bunker. Thousands of people died in connection with the construction, not to mention the starving population in general. Today, due to its sheer size, it costs the country millions per year to run.
On our final morning here we caught a bus to the airport with great trepidation. The machine read our travel cards and gave us the green light, but no inspectors did any checking today. As has been the case throughout our time here, I struggled on and off the bus with our luggage with no offers of help. This was the same getting on and off trains, hoisting suitcases onto overhead luggage racks, getting luggage up and down station staircases, etc. It just seemed strange no one offered to help or ever glanced our way or smiled. So, we were dumbstruck for a moment when passing through passport control, the female officer smiled a big warm smile at us and asked if we liked our time in Romania. Of course we said yes, and she said she was genuinely happy to hear this. We were very happy to see that smiling here is a thing after all.
Summing up, here are some quick observations of our visit. The countryside is very beautiful. The cost of living is very inexpensive. The beer is good, the food hearty. Most people smoke. Most only speak Hungarian, so I played charades for a week. (It was a little embarrassing having to act out using toilet paper to get some for our room.) While there were some very kind souls on the street, counter staff and service industry staff were generally very surly and unhelpful. They do not seem to consider tourism a benefit or an industry worthy of encouraging, though I don’t think this lack of warmth is just directed at tourists. Perhaps they are just weary and wary because of their time under communism.
There is very little tourist information or assistance available, so if you are travelling independently here, do your homework well beforehand. Although I felt quite out of my comfort zone, it was an experience I wouldn’t have wanted to miss, for it is a beautiful country with much to offer.
Summing up, here are some quick observations of our visit. The countryside is very beautiful. The cost of living is very inexpensive. The beer is good, the food hearty. Most people smoke. Most only speak Hungarian, so I played charades for a week. (It was a little embarrassing having to act out using toilet paper to get some for our room.) While there were some very kind souls on the street, counter staff and service industry staff were generally very surly and unhelpful. They do not seem to consider tourism a benefit or an industry worthy of encouraging, though I don’t think this lack of warmth is just directed at tourists. Perhaps they are just weary and wary because of their time under communism.
There is very little tourist information or assistance available, so if you are travelling independently here, do your homework well beforehand. Although I felt quite out of my comfort zone, it was an experience I wouldn’t have wanted to miss, for it is a beautiful country with much to offer.