Index for this page (scroll down to see in order): Norwegian Spirit - Mediterranean - Oct./Nov.. 2017
Norwegian Jewel - Alaska - Sep. 2012
Norwegian Jewel - Panama Canal - Oct. 2012
Norwegian Jewel - Alaska - Sep. 2012
Norwegian Jewel - Panama Canal - Oct. 2012
Norwegian Spirit - Mediterranean Cruise - October/November 2017
This was our third cruise with the Norwegian line, and although not quite as good as our first time with them, it was still pretty damn good. We boarded our cruise ship, Norwegian Spirit, at Civitavecchia with minimum fuss and set about putting our complimentary drinks package into operation. This was probably a good idea as the captain advised that we would set sail under gale force winds. Having bought bargain basement tickets, our cabin was at the very front of the ship, the place where sea swell is felt most. We quickly fell into a deep sleep, surprised to wake next morning to calm seas, having slept blissfully through waves that apparently upset many passengers.
A sea day followed, which allowed us to explore the ship, relax, and further indulge in the bar menu. We were looking forward to this cruise as it combined visits to some much loved places we have previously visited with a few new spots we have long wished to visit. Our first four stops were old haunts, so we were happy to enjoy them at leisure, walking around and soaking up the atmosphere, not having to cram in attractions which we had done in the past. |
October 24 Iraklion, Crete
It was 30 years ago we last visited Crete and things have changed. Catering to the tourist industry has seen the port of Iraklion moderised, streets cleaned up and paved, market areas closed to traffic. Despite all this it had a somewhat shabby feel, which big cities often have. (Iraklion is the fourth largest city in Greece.) We barely recognised the city, but we did recognise the Cretan souvlaki in pita. It always has chips added, which surprised us 30 years ago. We indulged in one after rambling around and then reminisced over a beer how we had been so impressed with the Palace of Knossos and loved exploring through the hills and villages further afield.
It was 30 years ago we last visited Crete and things have changed. Catering to the tourist industry has seen the port of Iraklion moderised, streets cleaned up and paved, market areas closed to traffic. Despite all this it had a somewhat shabby feel, which big cities often have. (Iraklion is the fourth largest city in Greece.) We barely recognised the city, but we did recognise the Cretan souvlaki in pita. It always has chips added, which surprised us 30 years ago. We indulged in one after rambling around and then reminisced over a beer how we had been so impressed with the Palace of Knossos and loved exploring through the hills and villages further afield.
October 25 Rhodes
This has always been one of our favorite Greek Islands, and although it has been three decades since our last visit, it retains all we remembered. The medieval city is a labyrinth of cobblestoned streets and beautifully preserved old buildings. We enjoyed getting lost in its narrow alleyways and were as awed as ever by the Palace of the Grand Master. The Knights of St John were well protected by city walls and castle walls and moats.
A beer in a boot shaped glass and a plate of calamari refreshed us while we accessed the taverna’s free WiFi. Then we scurried off like rats to find our way out of the maze and break free through one of the many city gates. We found ourselves back in the harbour where the Colossus once stood, now replaced by colossal cruise ships.
This has always been one of our favorite Greek Islands, and although it has been three decades since our last visit, it retains all we remembered. The medieval city is a labyrinth of cobblestoned streets and beautifully preserved old buildings. We enjoyed getting lost in its narrow alleyways and were as awed as ever by the Palace of the Grand Master. The Knights of St John were well protected by city walls and castle walls and moats.
A beer in a boot shaped glass and a plate of calamari refreshed us while we accessed the taverna’s free WiFi. Then we scurried off like rats to find our way out of the maze and break free through one of the many city gates. We found ourselves back in the harbour where the Colossus once stood, now replaced by colossal cruise ships.
October 26 Piraeus and Athens
Greece is a long time favorite country of ours. We love its food, its history, its people, its scenery, and these always over-ride her faults. So, we were not surprised to dock at Piraeus and find that the Metro was on strike. This meant a long wait and tightly packed bus ride to get into Athens, but once we arrived we enjoyed strolling down familiar streets, taking in familiar sights. We made our way to Monistaraki, and paid a visit to a taverna we first visited 33 years ago. Here we had tasted our first Greek beans and first drank retsina with a side dish of sliced apples which we dipped in the drink before eating. The same family own it. The same foods are served.
Greece is a long time favorite country of ours. We love its food, its history, its people, its scenery, and these always over-ride her faults. So, we were not surprised to dock at Piraeus and find that the Metro was on strike. This meant a long wait and tightly packed bus ride to get into Athens, but once we arrived we enjoyed strolling down familiar streets, taking in familiar sights. We made our way to Monistaraki, and paid a visit to a taverna we first visited 33 years ago. Here we had tasted our first Greek beans and first drank retsina with a side dish of sliced apples which we dipped in the drink before eating. The same family own it. The same foods are served.
October 27 Mykonos
Another familiar island to us, and although a new modernised harbour has been added and many new hotels sprung up, the strict building code has ensured its white, cuboid buildings retain the atmosphere of the Cyclades. We found the little square where we had stayed years ago, but Little Angelo’s was gone. Angelo had met us at the bus stop on a cold winter’s day in 1984 and been elated that the only four tourists on the island at the time had agreed to stay at his hotel. He had let us in, then promptly disappeared. When we eventually had to leave, no one could tell us where he was, so we left the rent with the airline office. Hopefully he got it.
Mykonos is all white and blue and tavernas and churches. The main town curves around the seafront and loses itself in a maze of narrow alleys that challenge even the most directionally astute. (Here, I think even my friend Helen would get lost, and god forbid my friend Margot should ever be let loose in the vicinity.)
Our free WiFi access today came thanks to one cheese pie and one spinach pie. Each day we treat ourselves to one of our favoured Greek foods, and a beer of course. Just for the WiFi. 😉
Another familiar island to us, and although a new modernised harbour has been added and many new hotels sprung up, the strict building code has ensured its white, cuboid buildings retain the atmosphere of the Cyclades. We found the little square where we had stayed years ago, but Little Angelo’s was gone. Angelo had met us at the bus stop on a cold winter’s day in 1984 and been elated that the only four tourists on the island at the time had agreed to stay at his hotel. He had let us in, then promptly disappeared. When we eventually had to leave, no one could tell us where he was, so we left the rent with the airline office. Hopefully he got it.
Mykonos is all white and blue and tavernas and churches. The main town curves around the seafront and loses itself in a maze of narrow alleys that challenge even the most directionally astute. (Here, I think even my friend Helen would get lost, and god forbid my friend Margot should ever be let loose in the vicinity.)
Our free WiFi access today came thanks to one cheese pie and one spinach pie. Each day we treat ourselves to one of our favoured Greek foods, and a beer of course. Just for the WiFi. 😉
October 28 Santorini
Today we arrived at a place new to us, long on our bucket list. In the early morning darkness we sailed into the caldera, dwarfed by cliffs rising up to a sprinkling of lights of villages and the few remaining stars. It was breathtaking watching dawn break, the colours changing through black, violets, soft pinks, and then a hush before the sun exploded over the rim and you almost expected a fanfare of trumpets. The soft pink of the buildings turned a blinding white and lay on the cliff tops like snow, the distinct, multi-coloured layers of rock below, a geologist’s delight.
Santorini was everything we imagined, the postcards and tourist brochure pictures not lying at all. The tender took us ashore where most people took the cable car up to the village of Fira, having been warned off the donkeys and the donkey steps as being too steep and slippery. The cable car ride was steep, but provided dramatic views.
Today we arrived at a place new to us, long on our bucket list. In the early morning darkness we sailed into the caldera, dwarfed by cliffs rising up to a sprinkling of lights of villages and the few remaining stars. It was breathtaking watching dawn break, the colours changing through black, violets, soft pinks, and then a hush before the sun exploded over the rim and you almost expected a fanfare of trumpets. The soft pink of the buildings turned a blinding white and lay on the cliff tops like snow, the distinct, multi-coloured layers of rock below, a geologist’s delight.
Santorini was everything we imagined, the postcards and tourist brochure pictures not lying at all. The tender took us ashore where most people took the cable car up to the village of Fira, having been warned off the donkeys and the donkey steps as being too steep and slippery. The cable car ride was steep, but provided dramatic views.
Back in Fira, the town was alive with music and flags, everyone waiting for the parade through the streets to celebrate the 28th October celebrations of a WWII battle. To access WiFi today I had to order a bowl of the delicious, creamy, thick Greek yoghurt with honey at a cafe overlooking the parade. The tough things we have to do to stay in touch with the world!
I sort of lost my way back to the gondola and found myself on the steps of the donkey trail. People I passed walking up this track assured me it was not too dangerous, so I followed it down, side-stepping the donkey poo and enjoying the amazing views from different levels.
Santorini was wonderful on every level.
Santorini was wonderful on every level.
October 30 Valletta, Malta
Today gave us a new country. Malta sounds beautiful - the way it rolls around the mouth. (Or am I thinking of malteasers?) Turns out Malta, the country, is beautiful, full of history, old buildings, and breathtaking views. It was founded by the Order of St John, also known as the Knights Hospitaller, in 1645 as a refuge for soldiers returning from the Crusades. Valletta is the capital and its official name given by the Order of St John was Humilissima Civita Valletta - the Most Humble City of Valletta.
Our ship docked in the Grand Harbour at Pinto Wharf beside a row of beautifully restored 250 year old warehouses. Today we decided to take the Hop On Hop Off bus, which allowed us to see something of the country side as well as the cities. Mdina, the silent city, was a highlight. The old capital of Malta is a fortified medieval town set on a high spot in the centre of the island. It is referred to as the silent city as no cars (except for the few local residents) are allowed in. The views over the island from the city walls were magnificent. According to the Acts of the Apostles, Paul the Apostle was shipwrecked on Malta in 60 AD. He was greeted by Publius, the governor of Mdina, known at that time as Melite, and he cured his sick father.
Back at the Grand Harbour we took the Upper Barrack Lift to the Upper Barrack Gardens and Valletta city centre. The lift is 58 metres high and provides wonderful views from the top. We enjoyed the gardens, the views and a stroll around the paved city streets.
Today gave us a new country. Malta sounds beautiful - the way it rolls around the mouth. (Or am I thinking of malteasers?) Turns out Malta, the country, is beautiful, full of history, old buildings, and breathtaking views. It was founded by the Order of St John, also known as the Knights Hospitaller, in 1645 as a refuge for soldiers returning from the Crusades. Valletta is the capital and its official name given by the Order of St John was Humilissima Civita Valletta - the Most Humble City of Valletta.
Our ship docked in the Grand Harbour at Pinto Wharf beside a row of beautifully restored 250 year old warehouses. Today we decided to take the Hop On Hop Off bus, which allowed us to see something of the country side as well as the cities. Mdina, the silent city, was a highlight. The old capital of Malta is a fortified medieval town set on a high spot in the centre of the island. It is referred to as the silent city as no cars (except for the few local residents) are allowed in. The views over the island from the city walls were magnificent. According to the Acts of the Apostles, Paul the Apostle was shipwrecked on Malta in 60 AD. He was greeted by Publius, the governor of Mdina, known at that time as Melite, and he cured his sick father.
Back at the Grand Harbour we took the Upper Barrack Lift to the Upper Barrack Gardens and Valletta city centre. The lift is 58 metres high and provides wonderful views from the top. We enjoyed the gardens, the views and a stroll around the paved city streets.
October 31 Messina, Sicily
Sicily was another new spot for us, so we went about exploring with eager eyes. The rock being kicked by the boot of Italy is separated by a surprisingly narrow strait - three kilometres at its narrowest. Home to The Godfather, the mafia, Mount Etna, and delicious products like wine, olives and cannoli, it evokes images of big, noisy family gatherings around tables of plentiful food. We did come across plenty of noisy locals enjoying food at outdoor cafes, though in small gatherings.
Messina is easy to walk around and the Duamo and bell tower, situated in the main square, were the main draw cards. The cathedral was built in 1120 by orders of a Norman king and though damaged several times by fire and earthquakes, it is impressive inside and out. The bell tower contains the biggest and most complex astronomical clock in the world. At noon each day a complex system of counterweights, leverages, and gears moves, providing 10 minutes of audio visual entertainment to the crowds gathered in the square below.
We accessed our WiFi today thanks to coffee and cannoli from a local cafe beside the cathedral.
Sicily was another new spot for us, so we went about exploring with eager eyes. The rock being kicked by the boot of Italy is separated by a surprisingly narrow strait - three kilometres at its narrowest. Home to The Godfather, the mafia, Mount Etna, and delicious products like wine, olives and cannoli, it evokes images of big, noisy family gatherings around tables of plentiful food. We did come across plenty of noisy locals enjoying food at outdoor cafes, though in small gatherings.
Messina is easy to walk around and the Duamo and bell tower, situated in the main square, were the main draw cards. The cathedral was built in 1120 by orders of a Norman king and though damaged several times by fire and earthquakes, it is impressive inside and out. The bell tower contains the biggest and most complex astronomical clock in the world. At noon each day a complex system of counterweights, leverages, and gears moves, providing 10 minutes of audio visual entertainment to the crowds gathered in the square below.
We accessed our WiFi today thanks to coffee and cannoli from a local cafe beside the cathedral.
November 1 Naples
Napoli sounds so much more romantic than Naples, so we shall stick with the Italian name to do it justice. Napoli actually comes from Greek, meaning new city. Having stayed in Napoli in the past, we were happy to leisurely roam around, revisiting familiar sights. On this, the last day of our cruise, the sun decided to shine its brightest and the sky decided to turn on its most brilliant blue. The city came alive as the morning unfolded and turned into a throbbing, moving mass of locals opening shops, setting up stalls, sweeping streets and going about their shopping. The day ended with a beautiful, near full moon rising over Vesuvius. It doesn’t get much better than this.
Napoli sounds so much more romantic than Naples, so we shall stick with the Italian name to do it justice. Napoli actually comes from Greek, meaning new city. Having stayed in Napoli in the past, we were happy to leisurely roam around, revisiting familiar sights. On this, the last day of our cruise, the sun decided to shine its brightest and the sky decided to turn on its most brilliant blue. The city came alive as the morning unfolded and turned into a throbbing, moving mass of locals opening shops, setting up stalls, sweeping streets and going about their shopping. The day ended with a beautiful, near full moon rising over Vesuvius. It doesn’t get much better than this.
November 2 Civitavecchia, Italy
And so, 11 days on, our final port of call and disembarkation point was Civitavecchia. It was a brilliant cruise. We were lucky with the weather, fine and warm all the way. Being the end of season, we didn’t have to contend with too many crowds and were often the only cruise ship in the ports visited. The Norwegian Spirit is one of Norwegian’s older ships, but it is probably the cleanest. Staff never stopped cleaning, dusting, polishing, and painting every possible nook and cranny. We liked the casualness of the ship and the friendliness of staff. We liked that things were always on time and that you never had to line up for shows or meals or getting on and off the ship. Everything was laid back, but efficient. We liked our special deal which included pre-paid gratuities, a free drinks package and onboard credit. We actually got off the ship with a cheque for unused onboard credit. First time ever we have made money cruising!
And so, 11 days on, our final port of call and disembarkation point was Civitavecchia. It was a brilliant cruise. We were lucky with the weather, fine and warm all the way. Being the end of season, we didn’t have to contend with too many crowds and were often the only cruise ship in the ports visited. The Norwegian Spirit is one of Norwegian’s older ships, but it is probably the cleanest. Staff never stopped cleaning, dusting, polishing, and painting every possible nook and cranny. We liked the casualness of the ship and the friendliness of staff. We liked that things were always on time and that you never had to line up for shows or meals or getting on and off the ship. Everything was laid back, but efficient. We liked our special deal which included pre-paid gratuities, a free drinks package and onboard credit. We actually got off the ship with a cheque for unused onboard credit. First time ever we have made money cruising!
Norwegian Jewel - Alaska - Sep. 2012
This was our first time on the Norwegian line, and part one of a two section cruise. We sailed to Alaska for a week, then had some time in Vancouver and L.A. before rejoining this ship and sailing to Miami through the Panama Canal. The Jewel was a beautiful ship, facilities and activities were great, as were the staff, the service and the food. It was also wonderful that we were able to travel with our neighbours and very good friends, Frank and Helen.
September 15 & 16 Seattle, Canada
Ah! Life at sea - that's for me. Day 1 saw us board our cruise boat, the Norwegian Jewel, with a sleek, polished efficiency. We set sail mid-afternoon on a calm sea under a clear sky. The Seattle skyline faded to the south and after some coastline watching we set about exploring the ship.
Naturally it has all the comforts of home, plus some. (I tell a lie - it has plus a lot.) The cabins are very comfortable and quite roomy. Roger, who is very jolly, tends our every cabin need with zeal and dedication. We are still discovering all the interesting activity areas and we are still counting the restaurants and bars.
Day 2 - a sea day as we sailed further north to Alaska. I am exhausted with all this exploring and attending activities. Memo to self - you don't have to do everything. I did start the day peacefully, almost alone on deck at 6 a.m. as a beautiful rosy glow began to show in the east. The wind was a little chilly as it whipped along the open decks, but it was worth it to watch he spectacular sunrise.
I learned many new things as I roamed the ship. I attended an interesting presentation on glaciers and how this northern area has changed over time. I attended my first ever art auction and almost picked up an original Picasso and a Goya for a bargain, but I just wasn't brave enough. I sweated in the gym and then had to eat heartily to replace my calorie loss. I learned that happy hour is aptly named and I ended my night with an upbeat show featuring music from the seventies.
Tonight I will sleep like a log. I'm exhausted, but happy. Tomorrow we dock at Ketchikan.
Ah! Life at sea - that's for me. Day 1 saw us board our cruise boat, the Norwegian Jewel, with a sleek, polished efficiency. We set sail mid-afternoon on a calm sea under a clear sky. The Seattle skyline faded to the south and after some coastline watching we set about exploring the ship.
Naturally it has all the comforts of home, plus some. (I tell a lie - it has plus a lot.) The cabins are very comfortable and quite roomy. Roger, who is very jolly, tends our every cabin need with zeal and dedication. We are still discovering all the interesting activity areas and we are still counting the restaurants and bars.
Day 2 - a sea day as we sailed further north to Alaska. I am exhausted with all this exploring and attending activities. Memo to self - you don't have to do everything. I did start the day peacefully, almost alone on deck at 6 a.m. as a beautiful rosy glow began to show in the east. The wind was a little chilly as it whipped along the open decks, but it was worth it to watch he spectacular sunrise.
I learned many new things as I roamed the ship. I attended an interesting presentation on glaciers and how this northern area has changed over time. I attended my first ever art auction and almost picked up an original Picasso and a Goya for a bargain, but I just wasn't brave enough. I sweated in the gym and then had to eat heartily to replace my calorie loss. I learned that happy hour is aptly named and I ended my night with an upbeat show featuring music from the seventies.
Tonight I will sleep like a log. I'm exhausted, but happy. Tomorrow we dock at Ketchikan.
September 17 Ketchikan, Alaska
We docked in downtown Ketchikan, the salmon capital of the world, by seven this morning. Ketchikan is Alaska's wettest city, with an amazing yearly average of 13 feet of rainfall. We were lucky enough to have a misty, but rain-free morning that allowed us a great opportunity to explore the area on foot. By early afternoon, however, it was drizzling.
Ketchikan's history is founded on fishermen, loggers and miners and the buildings and layout of the town evoke that old wild frontier feel. The buildings are all timber and nestled around the waterfront, along the creek and up the mountainside clothed in hundreds of shades of green.
An interesting fact about Ketchikan is that it has one of the largest collections of totem poles in the world. The other really interesting thing I enjoyed was watching the salmon swim up stream. Each year over a million pink salmon return to spawn. It is an amazing feat that they manage to swim and leap up the fast flowing creek.
The historic buildings on Creek Street (once houses of ill repute, now tourist shops) are built on long wooden pilings. Strolling along the wooden boardwalk, one can watch the icy cold water flowing beside and do a spot of shopping. There are plenty of bargains to be had as the cruise ship season is drawing to a close for the winter.
We docked in downtown Ketchikan, the salmon capital of the world, by seven this morning. Ketchikan is Alaska's wettest city, with an amazing yearly average of 13 feet of rainfall. We were lucky enough to have a misty, but rain-free morning that allowed us a great opportunity to explore the area on foot. By early afternoon, however, it was drizzling.
Ketchikan's history is founded on fishermen, loggers and miners and the buildings and layout of the town evoke that old wild frontier feel. The buildings are all timber and nestled around the waterfront, along the creek and up the mountainside clothed in hundreds of shades of green.
An interesting fact about Ketchikan is that it has one of the largest collections of totem poles in the world. The other really interesting thing I enjoyed was watching the salmon swim up stream. Each year over a million pink salmon return to spawn. It is an amazing feat that they manage to swim and leap up the fast flowing creek.
The historic buildings on Creek Street (once houses of ill repute, now tourist shops) are built on long wooden pilings. Strolling along the wooden boardwalk, one can watch the icy cold water flowing beside and do a spot of shopping. There are plenty of bargains to be had as the cruise ship season is drawing to a close for the winter.
September 18 Juneau, Alaska
Juneau, surrounded by waterways, rugged mountainsides and glaciers, is the only capital of the United States that is inaccessible by road. We sailed into its lovely port this morning as a heavy fog lifted and revealed the surrounds. Juneau is situated at the foot of the Juneau Icefield, home to 38 major glaciers.
After disembarking, we caught a local bus out to the Mendenhall Glacier where we were lucky enough to enjoy a pleasant few hours hiking some easy trails that allowed us to view the glacier under lovely sunshine. We saw squirrels and hedgehogs, beaver dams and salmon swimming upstream, but unfortunately no bears. One path had been closed due to the large number of bears feeding on the salmon, so we missed our chance to spot them.
The glacier itself was amazing, with vibrant blue colours running through the ice. It stood above the river, moving imperceptibly at a snail's pace. Big chunks of ice that had broken away, also in beautiful shades of blue, floated on the water below.
A torrential waterfall fell nearby, close to the glacier, setting a majestic scene. We snapped hundreds of photos trying to capture it awesomeness, but I fear we failed. The loveliness of some things is beyond capture.
Juneau, surrounded by waterways, rugged mountainsides and glaciers, is the only capital of the United States that is inaccessible by road. We sailed into its lovely port this morning as a heavy fog lifted and revealed the surrounds. Juneau is situated at the foot of the Juneau Icefield, home to 38 major glaciers.
After disembarking, we caught a local bus out to the Mendenhall Glacier where we were lucky enough to enjoy a pleasant few hours hiking some easy trails that allowed us to view the glacier under lovely sunshine. We saw squirrels and hedgehogs, beaver dams and salmon swimming upstream, but unfortunately no bears. One path had been closed due to the large number of bears feeding on the salmon, so we missed our chance to spot them.
The glacier itself was amazing, with vibrant blue colours running through the ice. It stood above the river, moving imperceptibly at a snail's pace. Big chunks of ice that had broken away, also in beautiful shades of blue, floated on the water below.
A torrential waterfall fell nearby, close to the glacier, setting a majestic scene. We snapped hundreds of photos trying to capture it awesomeness, but I fear we failed. The loveliness of some things is beyond capture.
On returning to Juneau we ascended Mt Roberts on the aerial tramway which lifted us from the historic waterfront area to the mountain station 1,800 feet above the city. Believe it or not, the hiking trails from here take you even higher, availing even more breathtaking, panoramic views of the city and waterways below.
Juneau was founded as a result of gold. In fact, the first major gold discovery of Alaska was made here. By 1944 the local mines were mostly out of production and today the main focus is government, tourism and commercial fishing. It is quite a pretty city, but more modern than Ketchikan, and with less of that rugged frontier feel about it. We departed Juneau at nine in the evening, sailing off into a calm, cool night.
Juneau was founded as a result of gold. In fact, the first major gold discovery of Alaska was made here. By 1944 the local mines were mostly out of production and today the main focus is government, tourism and commercial fishing. It is quite a pretty city, but more modern than Ketchikan, and with less of that rugged frontier feel about it. We departed Juneau at nine in the evening, sailing off into a calm, cool night.
September 19 Skagway, Alaska
The weather gods have remained kind to us and blessed us with perfect weather to ride the White Pass and Yukon Route and witness more breathtaking scenery. We sailed into Skagway in fog, but it soon lifted to reveal a beautiful morning.
Skagway marks the most northern point of the Inside Passage and its picturesque setting is framed by the deep waters of Taiya Inlet and the rugged Coast Mountains. The small town has tried to preserve its history and the downtown area looks much the same as it did in the gold rush era with its broad streets and turn of the century shop fronts and saloons.
Skagway became a lawless bastion of gold seekers, painted ladies, con artists and gamblers preparing for the long trek toward the Klondike gold fields. Gold was discovered in 1896 and once the tens of thousands of gold crazed hopefuls arrived in Skagway they still had a further six hundred miles to travel over treacherous trails and waterways to reach the Klondike.
The construction of the railway known as the White Pass and Yukon Route, begun in 1898, made this journey much easier, though the zenith of the Klondike gold rush had passed by the time it was completed. Travelling over the route makes one wonder how those men forged their way with only pick axes, shovels and dynamite to complete it in a mere 26 months. Thanks to their triumph over challenge yesterday, today we enjoyed a journey of a lifetime.
We were told that sometimes this journey can be made encased in cloud and rain, but we were very lucky as today was the clearest day in four weeks. We were afforded spectacular views of snow capped mountains set against clear blue skies, lush green mountainsides etched with waterfalls and deep gullies, and glimpses of the past in headstones, old bridges, tunnels and remains of the famous trail of '98. We reached the White Pass summit, which marks the border between U.S. and Canada, in glorious sunshine. The return journey back down to Skagway was just as spectacular.
The weather gods have remained kind to us and blessed us with perfect weather to ride the White Pass and Yukon Route and witness more breathtaking scenery. We sailed into Skagway in fog, but it soon lifted to reveal a beautiful morning.
Skagway marks the most northern point of the Inside Passage and its picturesque setting is framed by the deep waters of Taiya Inlet and the rugged Coast Mountains. The small town has tried to preserve its history and the downtown area looks much the same as it did in the gold rush era with its broad streets and turn of the century shop fronts and saloons.
Skagway became a lawless bastion of gold seekers, painted ladies, con artists and gamblers preparing for the long trek toward the Klondike gold fields. Gold was discovered in 1896 and once the tens of thousands of gold crazed hopefuls arrived in Skagway they still had a further six hundred miles to travel over treacherous trails and waterways to reach the Klondike.
The construction of the railway known as the White Pass and Yukon Route, begun in 1898, made this journey much easier, though the zenith of the Klondike gold rush had passed by the time it was completed. Travelling over the route makes one wonder how those men forged their way with only pick axes, shovels and dynamite to complete it in a mere 26 months. Thanks to their triumph over challenge yesterday, today we enjoyed a journey of a lifetime.
We were told that sometimes this journey can be made encased in cloud and rain, but we were very lucky as today was the clearest day in four weeks. We were afforded spectacular views of snow capped mountains set against clear blue skies, lush green mountainsides etched with waterfalls and deep gullies, and glimpses of the past in headstones, old bridges, tunnels and remains of the famous trail of '98. We reached the White Pass summit, which marks the border between U.S. and Canada, in glorious sunshine. The return journey back down to Skagway was just as spectacular.
We spent a pleasant few hours strolling around the town before heading back to the ship for our sunset cocktails and evening meal. Tonight we discovered a new restaurant which overlooks the ocean and is open 24 hours. I don't know how we had not found it before, but it provides another pleasant option for dining with a view.
As we are ready for a rest we are really looking forward to the sea day tomorrow.
As we are ready for a rest we are really looking forward to the sea day tomorrow.
September 20 Inside Passage
Today was a sea day, greatly appreciated by all as we sat back and relaxed and spent time enjoying the many delights offered when cruising. Technically we are no longer in the Inside Passage, but rather sailing down in the open sea. Fortunately weather is calm. After breakfast with a view, we claimed a spot on the most comfortable reclining chairs at the very front of the ship, top deck and warmed by lovely sunshine. Oh, the luxury of a full belly, a rested soul and time to oneself. I could have stayed all day, but Sponge Bob Square Pants came and ruined the serenity when he put on a show and drew a crowd of little kids close to my little haven.
Oh well, I found another spot, read some more, filled my belly again and then enjoyed some excellent entertainment. The onboard shows are superb and very professional. I am especially enjoying the comedians and stick firm to my philosophy in life that laughter is great medicine. Life is good.
Today was a sea day, greatly appreciated by all as we sat back and relaxed and spent time enjoying the many delights offered when cruising. Technically we are no longer in the Inside Passage, but rather sailing down in the open sea. Fortunately weather is calm. After breakfast with a view, we claimed a spot on the most comfortable reclining chairs at the very front of the ship, top deck and warmed by lovely sunshine. Oh, the luxury of a full belly, a rested soul and time to oneself. I could have stayed all day, but Sponge Bob Square Pants came and ruined the serenity when he put on a show and drew a crowd of little kids close to my little haven.
Oh well, I found another spot, read some more, filled my belly again and then enjoyed some excellent entertainment. The onboard shows are superb and very professional. I am especially enjoying the comedians and stick firm to my philosophy in life that laughter is great medicine. Life is good.
September 21 Victoria, Vancouver Island
Happy birthday Reg. How lucky is my husband to get a cruise for his birthday? He is doubly lucky because he celebrated all day yesterday as it was already the twenty-first in Australia and then again today for the twenty-first here.
We had a leisurely morning cruising and docked at beautiful Victoria in the early afternoon. As we have been to this part of the world a few times before, we enjoyed just roaming around and taking in the atmosphere. Familiarity allows a more relaxed exploring, but does not take away the appreciation of a lovely place. The flowers are still blooming in strong colours and the leaves are starting to change colour making ready for the fall.
Happy birthday Reg. How lucky is my husband to get a cruise for his birthday? He is doubly lucky because he celebrated all day yesterday as it was already the twenty-first in Australia and then again today for the twenty-first here.
We had a leisurely morning cruising and docked at beautiful Victoria in the early afternoon. As we have been to this part of the world a few times before, we enjoyed just roaming around and taking in the atmosphere. Familiarity allows a more relaxed exploring, but does not take away the appreciation of a lovely place. The flowers are still blooming in strong colours and the leaves are starting to change colour making ready for the fall.
We decided to go all out for Reg's birthday and pay the cover charge to go and eat in one of the specialty restaurants on board the ship. We chose the French one and the extra $20 a head was well worth it. The setting, the food and the service were divine.
September 22 Vancouver, Canada
As wonderful as cruising is, it has been lovely to step ashore and spend a few days in the delightful city of Vancouver.
As wonderful as cruising is, it has been lovely to step ashore and spend a few days in the delightful city of Vancouver.
Norwegian Jewel - Panama Canal Crossing - Oct. 2012
There's something comfortable about familiarity. Re-boarding the Norwegian Jewel at San Pedro, the port for Los Angeles, we felt a whole lot more relaxed and less rushed. Boarding was straight forward and we knew exactly where to go once on board. First stop (that's right, you guessed it) was the Tsar's Restaurant for a leisurely lunch. We took our time savouring the food in what we think is the nicest of the ship's eating places. Over coffee we studied the wine menu and chose an eclectic range of wines to try in our Viva Vino wine package which comes at a bargain price to use during the next 15 days. With the essentials taken care of, we found our cabins, unpacked, kicked off our shoes and melted into complete holiday mode.
It has been lovely having time at sea, relaxing and not having to go anywhere in particular. Now that we are heading south a lot of the focus of onboard activities and food is Mexican/ Latin American. I have done Salsa aerobics and Salsa dance classes and eaten salsa and ..., well, you get the idea.
The ship has a great gym, but now that we are in a warmer climate it has been nice to exercise using the walking tracks outdoors. I have also enjoyed doing the stretch exercise class provided each morning which really relaxes the muscles and mind for the day ahead.
Today, our third day aboard, we are about to arrive at Cabo San Lucas, Mexico. The weather is very warm and although there was some tropical storm around earlier in the week we seem to have avoided it and have had calm seas and smooth sailing all the way. The moon is almost full and looks magical shining on the water and the ship's wake. Last night as the sun sank below the ocean I saw the green flash as dazzling as ever I saw in the West Indies. Maybe we are crazy, but the anticipation of watching, waiting, hoping and then the excitement of actually seeing it happen is still there and as thrilling as we felt each evening witnessing the sunset from our balcony in Dominica for five years.
It has been lovely having time at sea, relaxing and not having to go anywhere in particular. Now that we are heading south a lot of the focus of onboard activities and food is Mexican/ Latin American. I have done Salsa aerobics and Salsa dance classes and eaten salsa and ..., well, you get the idea.
The ship has a great gym, but now that we are in a warmer climate it has been nice to exercise using the walking tracks outdoors. I have also enjoyed doing the stretch exercise class provided each morning which really relaxes the muscles and mind for the day ahead.
Today, our third day aboard, we are about to arrive at Cabo San Lucas, Mexico. The weather is very warm and although there was some tropical storm around earlier in the week we seem to have avoided it and have had calm seas and smooth sailing all the way. The moon is almost full and looks magical shining on the water and the ship's wake. Last night as the sun sank below the ocean I saw the green flash as dazzling as ever I saw in the West Indies. Maybe we are crazy, but the anticipation of watching, waiting, hoping and then the excitement of actually seeing it happen is still there and as thrilling as we felt each evening witnessing the sunset from our balcony in Dominica for five years.
September 29 Cabo San Lucas, Mexico
A few showers this morning and a few clouds still around as we sailed into Cabo San Lucas, but the sky soon cleared to a marvelous Mexican blue as we went ashore. Cabo San Lucas is perched at the tip of the Baja Peninsula where, as the tourist brochures say, the desert meets the Sea of Cortez. This was a typical Mexican resort style town set on a lovely harbour rimmed by colourful shops selling colourful tourist nicknacks, and colourful bars selling cheap cold beer ($1 Coronas) and great local food. Colourful characters were everywhere touting their wares, but they were all cheerful and friendly and not too pushy. The nearby white sandy beaches and blue sea looked very inviting, especially as the temperature continued to rise and the humidity took its toll. Mexico is all about strong colours, whether it be the brilliant blue of the sea and sky or the vibrant colours of the pottery, furnishings and clothing.
We strolled around the waterfront enjoying the atmosphere and also explored a little inland. There was a great deal of mopping up going on in the backstreets as the town had been inundated by floods over the last few days. This, we were told, came from the remnants of two hurricanes and as well, an earthquake had hit the peninsula last night. No major damage had been done however, and everyone was quite cheerful and going about business as usual.
A few showers this morning and a few clouds still around as we sailed into Cabo San Lucas, but the sky soon cleared to a marvelous Mexican blue as we went ashore. Cabo San Lucas is perched at the tip of the Baja Peninsula where, as the tourist brochures say, the desert meets the Sea of Cortez. This was a typical Mexican resort style town set on a lovely harbour rimmed by colourful shops selling colourful tourist nicknacks, and colourful bars selling cheap cold beer ($1 Coronas) and great local food. Colourful characters were everywhere touting their wares, but they were all cheerful and friendly and not too pushy. The nearby white sandy beaches and blue sea looked very inviting, especially as the temperature continued to rise and the humidity took its toll. Mexico is all about strong colours, whether it be the brilliant blue of the sea and sky or the vibrant colours of the pottery, furnishings and clothing.
We strolled around the waterfront enjoying the atmosphere and also explored a little inland. There was a great deal of mopping up going on in the backstreets as the town had been inundated by floods over the last few days. This, we were told, came from the remnants of two hurricanes and as well, an earthquake had hit the peninsula last night. No major damage had been done however, and everyone was quite cheerful and going about business as usual.
Sailing out of the port in the early evening we were treated to the impressive sight of El Arco, an arch carved out of rock by the sea. The sun set into low clouds so there was no green flash and the almost full moon rose through a low cloud bank to emerge a pale gold in the eastern sky.
September 30 Puerto Vallarta, Mexico
The forecast showers stayed away while we were on land so we had a clear, but very hot and humid day in Puerto Vallarta. We caught a local bus from the port into town, which took about 15 minutes. No air conditioning, but the 50 cent fare certainly beat the fares on the cruise ship arranged buses and it was interesting riding with the locals and clattering about through the cobble stone streets.
Puerto Vallarta is a lovely clean town sprawling by the water and climbing up into the hillside above. We enjoyed strolling on the boardwalk watching different entertainers, watching some sand castle sculptures taking shape and browsing the markets. The local bars all have free wifi for patrons so we had to partake in some more $1 Coronas and $1 Margaritas so as to get our emails out and connect with you all at home. The things we do for love.
The forecast showers stayed away while we were on land so we had a clear, but very hot and humid day in Puerto Vallarta. We caught a local bus from the port into town, which took about 15 minutes. No air conditioning, but the 50 cent fare certainly beat the fares on the cruise ship arranged buses and it was interesting riding with the locals and clattering about through the cobble stone streets.
Puerto Vallarta is a lovely clean town sprawling by the water and climbing up into the hillside above. We enjoyed strolling on the boardwalk watching different entertainers, watching some sand castle sculptures taking shape and browsing the markets. The local bars all have free wifi for patrons so we had to partake in some more $1 Coronas and $1 Margaritas so as to get our emails out and connect with you all at home. The things we do for love.
October 2 Huatulco, Mexico
Huatulco is the loveliest little Mexican village we have pulled into so far. It is on a deep harbour, so much so that the ship docked by the pier within spitting distance of the beach that edges the town. The ship seemed too gigantic for the little bay, but after we pulled up a second ship cruised in and also docked along side us. The two ships overpowered the town, towering over the buildings, but the locals lapped up the business chances they offered.
We disembarked and delighted in walking through this beautiful town full of garden squares, fishing boats, restaurant tables on the beach and tourist shops selling silver jewelry and colourfuI nicknacks. After exploring the immediate area known as Santa Cruz, we walked to the next town though a cutting in the hillside. It was also a delightful place, not yet too touched by tourism. It too was filled with sleepy squares where locals sat in the sunshine and contemplated life, colorful houses and shady pedestrian walkways through the middle of wide streets.
The people were really lovely, eager to sell their wares, but not too demanding. They offered advice on the area freely and were jolly and cheerful in their interactions. We saw some beautiful churches and thoroughly enjoyed the relaxed, peaceful nature of the area. We were glad to be here now and enjoy this sleepy little backwater, because once tourism discovers it and increases, things will change.
Huatulco is the loveliest little Mexican village we have pulled into so far. It is on a deep harbour, so much so that the ship docked by the pier within spitting distance of the beach that edges the town. The ship seemed too gigantic for the little bay, but after we pulled up a second ship cruised in and also docked along side us. The two ships overpowered the town, towering over the buildings, but the locals lapped up the business chances they offered.
We disembarked and delighted in walking through this beautiful town full of garden squares, fishing boats, restaurant tables on the beach and tourist shops selling silver jewelry and colourfuI nicknacks. After exploring the immediate area known as Santa Cruz, we walked to the next town though a cutting in the hillside. It was also a delightful place, not yet too touched by tourism. It too was filled with sleepy squares where locals sat in the sunshine and contemplated life, colorful houses and shady pedestrian walkways through the middle of wide streets.
The people were really lovely, eager to sell their wares, but not too demanding. They offered advice on the area freely and were jolly and cheerful in their interactions. We saw some beautiful churches and thoroughly enjoyed the relaxed, peaceful nature of the area. We were glad to be here now and enjoy this sleepy little backwater, because once tourism discovers it and increases, things will change.
October 3 Puerto Chiapas, Mexico
Buenos Dias amigos. Puerto Chiapas was our final Mexican port of call and it was, like the previous port, a quiet little place new to the cruise ship trail. The cruise terminal has little around it other than some village huts nearby and a massive stretch of untouched beach that sweeps the coast for as far as the eye can see.
Buenos Dias amigos. Puerto Chiapas was our final Mexican port of call and it was, like the previous port, a quiet little place new to the cruise ship trail. The cruise terminal has little around it other than some village huts nearby and a massive stretch of untouched beach that sweeps the coast for as far as the eye can see.
The terminal does, however, have extensive facilities presented in a charmingly understated way. Local bands, singers and dancers greeted us with music on the dock as we pulled ashore, played all day under a huge grass pyramid (palapa) while we were there, and farewelled us as we left the port in the evening. The local stalls sold beautiful crafts, clothing and jewellery at very reasonable costs and a second grass-roofed pyramid housed a restaurant/bar beside a pool and seemed to be doing a roaring trade as Latin beats set the scene.
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We took a 30 minute bus ride into Tapachula, a city of about 200,000 people. It was a bustling city full of market streets selling chickens, fish, fresh fruit and vegetables and certain other wares of which we weren't quite sure what they were. The city is comprised of a diversity of ethnic groups, including Germans who settled in Chiapas during the coffee boom. We thoroughly enjoyed walking around the streets and also enjoyed viewing the countryside during the drive. Unfortunately we did not get to the nearby Mayan ruins of Izapa which was a bit disappointing as the ruins date back as far as 1500 BC. On December 21 this year it's buildings will be perfectly aligned with the sun and the rest of the Milky Way and the Mayan long count calendar ends.
On departing Mexico's most southerly state, Chiapas, we also said goodbye to the country that gave us chocolate and tequila. I must say I have really enjoyed visiting Mexico again and was pleasantly surprised by the difference in ports we visited as I had been expecting all very touristy places full of resorts such as depicted in movies and shows like "The Love Boat".
Mexico, with a population exceeding 109,000,000, is the world's largest Spanish-speaking nation. Si señora and señoritas, that's right and what a beautiful sounding language it is. How I wish I had paid better attention to my good friend, Tibyrie's Spanish lessons when we lived in Dominica.
Centuries before the Spanish landed, this part of the world supported ancient civilizations such as the Aztecs, the Mayans and the Polemics, races of advanced artistry and social organisation. The famous Spanish conquistador, Cortez, defeated the last Aztec emperor, Montezuma II, in 1521 and now the colonial past is present everywhere in grilled balconies, arcaded courtyards, town squares and Catholic churches and cathedrals. Adios Mexico. Tomorrow we visit Guatemala.
Mexico, with a population exceeding 109,000,000, is the world's largest Spanish-speaking nation. Si señora and señoritas, that's right and what a beautiful sounding language it is. How I wish I had paid better attention to my good friend, Tibyrie's Spanish lessons when we lived in Dominica.
Centuries before the Spanish landed, this part of the world supported ancient civilizations such as the Aztecs, the Mayans and the Polemics, races of advanced artistry and social organisation. The famous Spanish conquistador, Cortez, defeated the last Aztec emperor, Montezuma II, in 1521 and now the colonial past is present everywhere in grilled balconies, arcaded courtyards, town squares and Catholic churches and cathedrals. Adios Mexico. Tomorrow we visit Guatemala.
October 4 Puerto Quetzal, Guatemala
There are 33 volcanoes in Guatemala, a country whose name in Indian dialect means 'house of fire'. We saw several of these volcanoes on our visit here, three looming over the lovely city of Antigua, one of which belched big clouds of grey smoke and ash at regular intervals. Guatemala has been aptly named as its history has been turbulent both politically and due to nature in the form of volcanic eruptions, earthquakes and floods.
Despite all this, mother nature has endowed it with a lush beauty thanks to the rich volcanic soil and tropical climate. We passed coffee plantations, sugar cane fields and crops such as maize and other vegetables on our 90 minute drive from the port to Antigua.
Puerto Quetzal itself was, like the last port, full of local craft stalls and entertainment for the boat passengers, but a long way from anything else. Hence Helen and I chose to do a local tour to Antigua on a small bus with 8 others. How glad I am that we did this, for Antigua is one of the loveliest cities I have seen and the day was a wonderful adventure. Our local guide was very knowledgable and had a great sense of humour.
There are 33 volcanoes in Guatemala, a country whose name in Indian dialect means 'house of fire'. We saw several of these volcanoes on our visit here, three looming over the lovely city of Antigua, one of which belched big clouds of grey smoke and ash at regular intervals. Guatemala has been aptly named as its history has been turbulent both politically and due to nature in the form of volcanic eruptions, earthquakes and floods.
Despite all this, mother nature has endowed it with a lush beauty thanks to the rich volcanic soil and tropical climate. We passed coffee plantations, sugar cane fields and crops such as maize and other vegetables on our 90 minute drive from the port to Antigua.
Puerto Quetzal itself was, like the last port, full of local craft stalls and entertainment for the boat passengers, but a long way from anything else. Hence Helen and I chose to do a local tour to Antigua on a small bus with 8 others. How glad I am that we did this, for Antigua is one of the loveliest cities I have seen and the day was a wonderful adventure. Our local guide was very knowledgable and had a great sense of humour.
Antigua, founded in 1542 by the conquering Spanish, flourishes its colonial past through its architecture and town layout. Situated between the so called water volcano and the fire volcano, it is now a United Nations World Heritage Site and the damage waged upon it by past earthquakes is visible in the ruins of a number of churches and convents. It was one of the richest cities in the New World and by the 18th century was a great centre of the arts and learning.
The wide, long, straight, cobble-stoned streets are fairly quiet except for the sudden appearance of street vendors whose radar must sense when tourists are about. Dressed in the colourful, ornately woven fabrics of the area, these vendors pull wares from their heavily laden slings which are cast over their shoulders. All sorts of beautiful objects appear to tempt you - elaborate weavings, decorative stitching and carved wooden flutes among other things.
The wide, long, straight, cobble-stoned streets are fairly quiet except for the sudden appearance of street vendors whose radar must sense when tourists are about. Dressed in the colourful, ornately woven fabrics of the area, these vendors pull wares from their heavily laden slings which are cast over their shoulders. All sorts of beautiful objects appear to tempt you - elaborate weavings, decorative stitching and carved wooden flutes among other things.
After wandering the streets and viewing lovely churches and squares we drove to the Hill of the Cross, a high point overlooking the city, where the early Spanish had erected a cross to stand large and visible to all as a symbol of the religion they brought to the New World. The spot provided a fabulous view of this peaceful city lying below.
A reminder of the volatile nature of the earth below hit us after lunch in the form a small tremor that caused the ground to tremble and an overhead chandelier to sway in the building we were in. As well, we were treated to a further show of the power of nature in the form of a thunder and lightning storm we passed through on the drive home.
Once again our day had been another pleasant surprise of beauty and differences. I must say I am enjoying this trip much more than I anticipated.
A reminder of the volatile nature of the earth below hit us after lunch in the form a small tremor that caused the ground to tremble and an overhead chandelier to sway in the building we were in. As well, we were treated to a further show of the power of nature in the form of a thunder and lightning storm we passed through on the drive home.
Once again our day had been another pleasant surprise of beauty and differences. I must say I am enjoying this trip much more than I anticipated.
October 6 Puntarenas, Costa Rica
Do you know the way to San Jose ...? La la la la la la la la la la la ...
We didn't make it to the capital of Costa Rica, but at least I do now know where it is and how to get there. We did not, in fact, make it beyond Puntarenas, the small traditional fishing village situated on a narrow peninsula where the cruise ship berthed. We decided to stay and enjoy the atmosphere of this seaside location which is also favoured on weekends by the residents of San Jose as a seaside escape.
We docked at the end of a long pier connecting us to a long, black sandy beach. On one side the beach was clean and wide and clear, making a spot well used by swimmers and sunbathers. To the right of the pier an equally large, wide stretch of beach was covered in drift wood, with the odd sunbather claiming a small spot of sand amid what the ocean had washed ashore.
Do you know the way to San Jose ...? La la la la la la la la la la la ...
We didn't make it to the capital of Costa Rica, but at least I do now know where it is and how to get there. We did not, in fact, make it beyond Puntarenas, the small traditional fishing village situated on a narrow peninsula where the cruise ship berthed. We decided to stay and enjoy the atmosphere of this seaside location which is also favoured on weekends by the residents of San Jose as a seaside escape.
We docked at the end of a long pier connecting us to a long, black sandy beach. On one side the beach was clean and wide and clear, making a spot well used by swimmers and sunbathers. To the right of the pier an equally large, wide stretch of beach was covered in drift wood, with the odd sunbather claiming a small spot of sand amid what the ocean had washed ashore.
Puntarenas, which means 'sandy point', is the prime port of Costa Rica and also the country's most important fishing harbour. It had a real holiday feel about it, with many colourful stalls sprawled either side of a long path running by the beach. Although the day was very humid, the breeze coming off the water and the many palm trees and other tropical foliage provided a cool place to enjoy wandering about. The people were very friendly and hospitable and not at all over-bearing in plying their wares.
The Spanish language seems to roll off tongues in a cheerful, robust way which somehow implies a passion for life. I do love the Costa Ricans' popular expression, 'Pura Vida'. It means 'pure life', and as well as being used as a form of greeting it is also used as an affirmation of taking the time to enjoy life and celebrate good fortune.
So, 'Pura Vida' my friends. Know that I am enjoying and appreciating my good fortune and that everyday I am thankful to be lucky enough to experience these opportunities.
So, 'Pura Vida' my friends. Know that I am enjoying and appreciating my good fortune and that everyday I am thankful to be lucky enough to experience these opportunities.
October 8 Panama Canal
Since opening in 1914 the Panama Canal has meant the journey between the world's two greatest oceans, the Pacific and the Atlantic, has been shortened by thousands of kilometres to an eight hour journey of slow steaming through a hilly tropical jungle. This modern wonder of the world is an amazing feat of engineering that carries about 40 vessels a day and now I am lucky enough to have sailed through it upon one such vessel.
Since opening in 1914 the Panama Canal has meant the journey between the world's two greatest oceans, the Pacific and the Atlantic, has been shortened by thousands of kilometres to an eight hour journey of slow steaming through a hilly tropical jungle. This modern wonder of the world is an amazing feat of engineering that carries about 40 vessels a day and now I am lucky enough to have sailed through it upon one such vessel.
We rose early, even before the sun, so as not to miss a moment of this experience. Panama City loomed like a ghost city in the early morning as we joined many other ships in the bay. By 7 a.m. the morning had already become hot and steamy, and the sky heavy with clouds. However, the rain held off and despite this being the wet season we made the entire 80 kilometre crossing without a drop falling.
We entered the Miraflores Locks by 7:30, well ahead of schedule, and were lifted up to enter Miraflores Lake by a double step process. This first set of locks has the biggest lift of any of the canal locks because of the extreme tidal fluctuations of the Pacific. The maximum lift can be as high as 20 metres.
We entered the Miraflores Locks by 7:30, well ahead of schedule, and were lifted up to enter Miraflores Lake by a double step process. This first set of locks has the biggest lift of any of the canal locks because of the extreme tidal fluctuations of the Pacific. The maximum lift can be as high as 20 metres.
The Pedro Miguel Locks were only a short distance on and only a single step up to place our ship into the Calebra Cut, the narrowest portion of the canal. This section extends approximately 14 kilometres and crosses the Continental Divide as it carries ships between Pedro Miguel and the southern edge of Gatun Lake at Gamboa. The saddle (low point) was initially 100 metres above sea level, but now the canal bed is only 12 metres above sea level, having had millions of cubic metres excavated, first by the French and later by the Americans. The water level itself is just over 25 metres above sea level. It felt very strange travelling in a huge ocean liner on a high, narrow, quiet waterway through tropical jungle and hills.
The next stage of the journey was a quiet, peaceful trip across Gatun Lake with its many small islands. We passed some cargo ships going south and we saw some crocodiles sunning themselves of the shore. Gatun Lake was the largest man-made lake in the world upon its completion in 1912 and remained so for more than 20 years, but now there are over 30 man-made lakes that are larger.
aFinally, we went through the Gatun Locks, a unique triple set of locks which are the largest and longest in the world. They lowered us down step by step and disgorged us into the Atlantic Ocean near the city of Colon. (No jokes please, though yes, it is pretty funny if you are thinking what I am thinking.) It doesn't look like a very inviting place with all its cranes and shipping containers towering over endless docks, but I will not judge as we did not get to spend time there.
It is hard to believe that today, in only 8 hours, we passed through a narrow saddle of this isthmus that joins North and South America, but for hundreds of years ships struggled for weeks, sometimes months to reach the same place via Cape Horn. The feat of constructing this canal was complex, but the working of the locks that make this crossing possible is so simple. The locks are all fed by water from Lake Gutan and gravity.
Throughout the journey we received a very good running commentary by an expert on the canal and it's history. She was easy to listen to and we learnt many interesting things. We were also enthralled by the building of extra locks at both ends of the canal. Construction is well under way, and seeing it only partly completed was a reminder of what a mammoth task had been undertaken in the beginning with the present canal. This project will allow another lane for larger ships and is expected to be completed in 2014.
As we completed our crossing we were surprised by how weary we were. The heat and the humidity had taken its toll and our legs were tired from traipsing back and forth across the ship, side to side, front to back, up and down levels, all in the name of taking advantage of the best viewing spot for particular parts of the journey and always worried we might miss out on seeing something especially noteworthy. We shall sleep well tonight, be it in another ocean.
Throughout the journey we received a very good running commentary by an expert on the canal and it's history. She was easy to listen to and we learnt many interesting things. We were also enthralled by the building of extra locks at both ends of the canal. Construction is well under way, and seeing it only partly completed was a reminder of what a mammoth task had been undertaken in the beginning with the present canal. This project will allow another lane for larger ships and is expected to be completed in 2014.
As we completed our crossing we were surprised by how weary we were. The heat and the humidity had taken its toll and our legs were tired from traipsing back and forth across the ship, side to side, front to back, up and down levels, all in the name of taking advantage of the best viewing spot for particular parts of the journey and always worried we might miss out on seeing something especially noteworthy. We shall sleep well tonight, be it in another ocean.
October 9 Cartagena, Columbia
Cartagena, founded in 1533, was one of Spain's most prized ports in the New World. Today its history is preserved as another United Nations World Heritage Site. The city is considered an island of peace in a country plagued by civil war and drug violence, but we were still warned to be extra vigilant with our belongings and safety.
Sailing into the harbour was quite lovely, but we could tell it was going to be another hot and steamy day as the sun beat down and overpowered the slight breeze that tried to cool us. We disembarked and took our luck with a local bus tour of the city. The tours offered by cruise boats are usually quite exorbitant in price and we have found that once in port, local companies offer similar tours at very much lower prices.
We enjoyed our day, but our tour guide turned out to be quite a little Hitler. His manner was very curt and bossy, though I don't think he meant to be so authoritative. It was just his way of being efficient and using English the best way he knew. It was entertaining though.
"Everybody come now! Quick, take a photo. Now, you have 10 minutes to look. If I say 10 minutes I mean 10, not 30. Then on the bus. Understand?"
"OK. Everybody pay now. Give me $20 or get off the bus. Good. Now, is everybody happy?"
Little Hitler, otherwise known as Rodrigo Rodriguez, had us moving like a well oiled machine. We all behaved and as a result we got to see much of the city in a reasonable time without too much hassle.
Cartagena, founded in 1533, was one of Spain's most prized ports in the New World. Today its history is preserved as another United Nations World Heritage Site. The city is considered an island of peace in a country plagued by civil war and drug violence, but we were still warned to be extra vigilant with our belongings and safety.
Sailing into the harbour was quite lovely, but we could tell it was going to be another hot and steamy day as the sun beat down and overpowered the slight breeze that tried to cool us. We disembarked and took our luck with a local bus tour of the city. The tours offered by cruise boats are usually quite exorbitant in price and we have found that once in port, local companies offer similar tours at very much lower prices.
We enjoyed our day, but our tour guide turned out to be quite a little Hitler. His manner was very curt and bossy, though I don't think he meant to be so authoritative. It was just his way of being efficient and using English the best way he knew. It was entertaining though.
"Everybody come now! Quick, take a photo. Now, you have 10 minutes to look. If I say 10 minutes I mean 10, not 30. Then on the bus. Understand?"
"OK. Everybody pay now. Give me $20 or get off the bus. Good. Now, is everybody happy?"
Little Hitler, otherwise known as Rodrigo Rodriguez, had us moving like a well oiled machine. We all behaved and as a result we got to see much of the city in a reasonable time without too much hassle.
The city of Cartagena has a population of one and a half million and I think they were all on the road this morning. It was slow going on the streets as we began, not helped at all by having three cruise boats in port as well. We started by climbing the hill to La Popa Monastery where an excellent view of the city and surrounds is available. Luckily for us we made it early (thanks to Rodrigo) for as we descended the hill we saw bus after bus after bus crawling up the road, stopping and having to park part way up, disgorging their passengers who had to walk up in the steamy heat because the buses could not move any further due to the traffic jam. How on earth they could ever eventually get up and then turn around in the limited space at the top, I do not know. We made our escape and drove through the new city, a long sleek Gold Coast type strip beside the sea, then on to the massive fort of San Felipe de Barajas and the old walled city.
Cartagena's history is a bloody one frequented by sieges and sackings, once even falling to Sir Francis Drake in 1586. It's forts and massive stone walls built to defend itself are very impressive. I would like to say we enjoyed strolling around the old city, but alas it was not to be. Rodrigo had us marching at top speed ( "Keep up my people! You will get lost otherwise.) and so, the beauty was gulped in at high speed and shots snapped in haste. Such a pity really, as the streets were attractive, the cool shady squares inviting, and the buildings and shops colourful and begging to be explored in greater detail.
Cartagena's history is a bloody one frequented by sieges and sackings, once even falling to Sir Francis Drake in 1586. It's forts and massive stone walls built to defend itself are very impressive. I would like to say we enjoyed strolling around the old city, but alas it was not to be. Rodrigo had us marching at top speed ( "Keep up my people! You will get lost otherwise.) and so, the beauty was gulped in at high speed and shots snapped in haste. Such a pity really, as the streets were attractive, the cool shady squares inviting, and the buildings and shops colourful and begging to be explored in greater detail.
With our brains overdosed on dazzling colours, sweat soaked clothes and our running shoes wearing thin, Rodrigo bustled us back onto the bus and deposited us back at the port by 2:30, well and truly in time to gather another unsuspecting bus load of thrifty tourists to bully through his beloved city. To his credit he only lost one couple along he way and they volunteered (or should I say they deserted) to stay shopping in the market area. His final order to us as approaching the port was not met with much appreciation. "Now, everyone happy? Good! $20 was for transport only. Now I am coming through the bus and you must pay me $5 each for my wages." Silly man. He could have earned that much or more in tips if he had kept his mouth closed. Obviously he hasn't heard the old saying that you catch more flies with honey than vinegar.
Still, it was a grand day. We got to see something of this interesting city, though be it in haste, and we got a few good laughs along the way, even though we felt like naughty school children. We sailed out of Cartagena after dark, feeling a little sad that this was the final visit of our cruise. We are looking forward to relaxing during our next two days at sea as we cruise towards Miami through the mighty Caribbean.
Still, it was a grand day. We got to see something of this interesting city, though be it in haste, and we got a few good laughs along the way, even though we felt like naughty school children. We sailed out of Cartagena after dark, feeling a little sad that this was the final visit of our cruise. We are looking forward to relaxing during our next two days at sea as we cruise towards Miami through the mighty Caribbean.
October 15 Miami, USA
Our ship sailed into Miami early Friday morning and it was rather sad disembarking after 15 glorious days of being pampered. I heard some crazy people saying they were ready to get off. I don't know, call me strange, but for some reason I like not cooking or cleaning or washing or ironing or having to make decisions other than what to choose off the menu.
Well, they dragged me off kicking and screaming and put me on a plane to New York. If I can't be on a cruise ship, then I am happy to settle for being in New York and making a new travel memory.
Our ship sailed into Miami early Friday morning and it was rather sad disembarking after 15 glorious days of being pampered. I heard some crazy people saying they were ready to get off. I don't know, call me strange, but for some reason I like not cooking or cleaning or washing or ironing or having to make decisions other than what to choose off the menu.
Well, they dragged me off kicking and screaming and put me on a plane to New York. If I can't be on a cruise ship, then I am happy to settle for being in New York and making a new travel memory.